Chef Series: Gale Gand Demonstration


(gentle music) (audience applauding) – Hello everyone, and welcome to the Madison
College Chef Demo Series sponsored by Vollrath. My name is Kyle Cherek. I host the television show on
PBS called Wisconsin Foodie. – Yeah!
– Oh. One fed.
(audience laughing) – Somebody watching us.
– One fed, go PBS! (laughs) If it weren’t broadcast
over the regular airwaves, well we don’t know. – Don’t ask.
– To my right is the first lady of pastry
of America, Gale Gand. (audience cheering and applauding) – Thank you, thank you. I know, you just, you look at me and you just see chocolate right? (audience laughing)
Even at my dentist’s office, I walk in and he’s like,
did you bring me anything? I’m like, you’re a dentist! – So across her long and storied career, there is a James Beard
Award in pastry in 2001, which in my opinion defined the craft for both American pastry and
for the future of pastry, and is still living as a craft. I don’t mean you as a craft, and still defining it.
– Whew! – Her eight books which
are just exceptional, are books that are sought
after both for their erudition within baking and pastry,
for their readability, and for their inspiration by many. In 2007, her fancy pants restaurant, as she called it to me backstage when we came out to do
a demo such like this, won a James Beard Award again
for best service in America, which is damn hard to do. Yeah.
– Took a, took a village. – Took a village, yeah, took a village. – Took a staff. (audience applauding)
Thank you. In addition to that, she led the way and taught so many of us in America how to experience the art
of pastry in our own homes through her television show Sweet Dreams for eight years on the Food Network, and then two years on–
– Cooking Channel. – On the Cooking Channel, making a round decade of
great talent, inspiration, and really codifying for the rest of us what America’s pastry tradition is, because we do have one. It’s just a little
different than the French, and you helped us know what it is. – I’m so glad you remember that moment, ’cause I don’t know that
I would have. (laughs) – So we were doing a demo
and I turned to Gale, and I asked everybody in pastry or baking, well primarily in pastry, whether it’s Pierre Zimmerman, who was here as part of the
series if you heard that demo, or Jackie Pfeiffer. I asked Christina Tosi, et cetera, does America have a pastry tradition? And all of them pause and
say, hmm, I don’t know. Maybe not, maybe. And Gale turned to me, didn’t miss a beat, and she’s like, yeah,
the drop cookie, duh! (all laughing) – Nowhere else has the
peanut butter cookie. – Right.
– With the crosshatching with the fork, back of a fork. That’s unique to us.
– Right. Right, get it off of the spoon, and onto the tray, and bake it, yeah. (audience chuckling) I met Gale maybe eight years ago I think, and I’m delighted that you are here. This is the last in this series, and then we’ll get into some questions, but I have to have, take the
opportunity really to say in front of all of you and
the cameras and for Gale that when Madison College
came to me for this series and Vollrath leapt at the opportunity to be terrific sponsors, we could not, we simply would not be doing this series at this caliber without Vollrath’s
support and participation. Madison College wanted to take this series to a bit more of a national level, and my first two calls were for, to Gale Gand and her ex-husband, but partner in Tru for what was it? – 18 years.
– 18 years. Yeah, Rick Tramonto, both friends of mine, and I said, I’m trying to build this series. It’s for students. It’s in this exemplary
kitchen at Jones Dairy, and I think we’ve got the
Jones Dairy folks here right? Philip and Denise, are you here? Please stand up. (all applauding) Please stand up. – Isn’t it his birthday today? – And it’s also Philip’s birthday today. – Can we sing to you?
(audience cheering) – Yeah. ♪ Happy birthday to you ♪ ♪ Happy birthday to you ♪ ♪ Happy birthday Dear Philip ♪
♪ Happy birthday Mr. Jones ♪ ♪ Happy birthday to you ♪ (all applauding) – You know, in the restaurant business, they’re always doing that. – Yeah.
– Right. – So we’re gonna go on a
lot of tangents tonight. One of the things that you probably don’t know about Gale Gand is that her dad quit his regular job at 40 to become a folk singer, practical move, and Gale grew up with a
fantastic musical career until the age of 19,
touring all over America. Yeah.
– I’m sure you saw me at the North Carolina Fiddlers Convention or possibly the Arkansas Folk Festival. I was also at Expo ’67 in Montreal. I had a week-long gig in
front of the Russian pavilion. Did you see me there? I was in fifth grade. – I still have the Expo ’67 t-shirt. – I have all, I have the ashtray, I have everything, yes. – Well, so she may be
apt to break into song. In fact our 11 year old
is here in the first row and we brought her one, because in the future, she’d
like to be a pastry chef, but also because she is
a mean ukulele player, and Gale plays a mean ukulele as well. – I play uke, too.
– Yeah. So you might just get a
song in the midst of this above and beyond Philip’s
happy birthday song. That’s a roundabout way of saying that that amazing kitchen is Philip’s fault. And we thank him for it. There are our legions.
(all applauding) – [Gale] Well, the world
is a better place– – It is–
– Because of you and this kitchen.
– It is. So Jones Dairy sausage people,
it’s on the arm, get it. There are legions of culinary students that will come through that kitchen, or have come through this kitchen, that will have that much
better of an education and the kitchen to be in, the kitchen of all for pretty
much everyone in the globe once Tru was built was the Tru kitchen. Yeah, and I don’t know how many of you saw the film, Ratatouille. Yeah, okay. So that was a pretty great kitchen, right? It was modeled after Tru’s kitchen, but it wasn’t as nice. – Wow.
– We didn’t have rats. – Yeah, yeah.
(audience chuckling) – Not that part. – But I mentioned that only to say that when both Gale, and then when Rick in his previous demo, walked into this kitchen,
they needed one of those, what do they call it when they get the pizza out of the oven? The pizza reach–
– Peel? – A pizza peel to pick
their jaws up off the floor. Because–
– I think I made a little squeak noise, right? When I went into the pastry kitchen. Suzannah was with me.
– Because of the terrific– – Did I make a little like
(gasps) like an inhale. Yes.
(audience chuckling) – Because of the generosity
of Jones Dairy farm, so thank you very much. So I’m so glad you’re here. – Thank you for inviting me. – Yeah, and what I was trying
to say a long time ago was, because you and Rick said yes, I was then able to call many other folks within the culinary firmament who said, I wanna be a part of that–
– That is so nice. – Because if your, well your
credibility, your star power, your history, your
contributions, your awards, your general humaneness. – You do anything long enough, and people believe that you can do it. (all laughing)
That’s my theory. – So I wanna talk about
pastry, how it’s evolved, because you didn’t mean
to be a pastry chef. – No.
– And I’d love for you to tell that story.
– And my parents didn’t want me to be a pastry chef, and if you have any, if there’s any parents out there whose kids wanna be
pastry chefs, it’s okay. They’ll be okay. At least you get fed every day. You get the family meal, you know? So you’re not gonna go
hungry, which is nice. – And we’re always good for desserts. Yeah.
– Right. You know, in my family,
my dad was a musician, I mentioned he was a folk singer. When I called him and told
him I wanted to be a chef, he said, oh Gale, you know, that’s not a very reliable business. I said, you’re a folk singer! (all laughing)
He goes, and a jazz trumpet player,
like that mattered. It was so funny, and my brother’s a
professional musician as well. He’s a blues guitarist out in California. So is my sister-in-law,
she’s a keyboard player. So I was sort of the loser in the family. – Right, right. (laughs) – But I went into this in the ’70s– – We had a practical living for you. – Well, it was sorta considered blue-collar work when I got into it. This is before Wolfgang
Puck legitimizes us. So you know, my parents
pictured sort of like, you know, bottle of
brandy on the top shelf, cigarette hanging out of your mouth, sweating into the, you know,
short-order cook kind of thing. – I’ve seen you cook. How has it changed? (all laughing)
– Not at all. No, but for me it, was an art form. I was going to art school at the time. I was working on my Bachelor of Fine Arts in silver and goldsmithing, which is, usually involves three to four
senses when you’re doing art. – Right, yep.
– Cooking involves all five. So to me cooking was more of a fine art than the fine arts I was
studying and getting a degree in. To convince my parents of
that didn’t go so well, but I knew it in my heart
that this was an art form that just had everything. It was, you know, it was entertainment, it was chemistry, it was
physics, it was dance, it was craft, it was art, it was nurturing, there’s psychology, and then when you get
later in your career, when you’re managing other people, you know, you’re sort of parenting, and– – Whether you like it or not. – Yes, you’re a
psychologist, a psychiatrist, a marriage counselor, all that stuff, but it has a lot of depth to
it besides the aesthetic bits, so I loved the complexity of it, and this is you know,
40-something years later and I still don’t tire of it.
– Yeah. So tell the story. You were in school and you
took a job in a restaurant. – Yeah, I was in art school. I went to CIA.
– Okay. – But the other CIA.
– Right. – The Cleveland Institute of Art. So people are like, oh,
so did you go to CIA? I’m like, absolutely. (all laughing)
But not that one. – Not the spy school. – So I was, right. (chuckles) Ooh, I should use that. – Actually, you should go to all of them. – All the CIAs.
– Triple CIA, yeah. – Get t-shirts. So I’m in art school and I’m starving, ’cause I have no money, I’m broke. And so, I thought, ooh, I’ll waitress, ’cause you get a free
meal, you get family meal. – And cash.
– We got, it was $2 worth of food that I could order every
night off the menu. So I had a salad for $1.25 and my boyfriend had a carob
sundae that was 75 cents. So I fed the family on my job. Yeah, and you went home
with pockets of cash. – Yeah, yeah.
– Now, the restaurant was a vegetarian restaurant. It was called Light of Yoga,
in case anybody ever ate there. It’s was a bookstore, yoga
bookstore, and restaurant. So a vegetarian restaurant. So it was simple food.
– That explains the carob sundae.
– Right, yeah. So I was a waitress
minding my own business, and I was very, I did great waitress. I loved describing the food. I loved you know telling
you the technique, whether it’s got sesame oil in it, ’cause you’ve got an allergy. I love–
– Well, you were used to performing.
– Right, I guess so. And I took it very seriously. The word restaurant comes
from the word to restore, the verb that means to restore in French. So I took it very seriously, that my job was to restore
you back to your best self. You know, you’re, we didn’t have the word hangry back then, but people come in hangry and
it was my job to sort of– – Especially after yoga.
– Match make them, but yeah, with whatever
dish would you know, would sustain them and bring
them back to their better self. So I took it really seriously,
but after about three weeks, what happens in my business is there’s something
called a no show, no call. Like you don’t call in work
when you work at a restaurant and go like, yeah, I
need a mental-health day, so I’m not coming in. Like you either are
dead or you’re in jail, or you just don’t show up. Like there’s no, can I
have, you know, you don’t– – Or you’re working on another restaurant. – So one of the line cooks didn’t show up. My manager came to me and said, Gale, can you cook? And I said no I can’t cook. I’m from the North Shore
of Chicago, you know? I’m a privileged white kid. We just make reservations, I don’t know how to cook.
(audience laughing) And my manager threw an apron
at me and she said to me, you can cook now. Get in the kitchen and I was literally
forced into the kitchen. So I talk about this like I
didn’t really pick this thing. It picked me. And that night, I go in the
kitchen and I’m terrified. I’ve never cooked on a
line before professionally. For about six seconds, I’m just,
I’m like frozen and scared, and I get choked up every
time I talk about it, second number seven, I have this strange sense
of calm come over me, like I had found my home and
like I was where I belonged, and I was–
– Aww. – Sorry, as if I was speaking a language– – She told this story earlier today, and there’s the same, I
mean this is so genuine. – That was like the moment that I, either I got picked or I just, I found, you know, the stars aligned for me. And I found this form of expression that connected me with people. So when my dad said to me, you know, I ran home that night, and I’m like, dad I know what I wanna do, and he kind of belittled it to be honest, ’cause he didn’t think it
was a very reliable business. He said to me, well Gale, I guess, you know, I guess everyone’s gotta eat. (all laughing) – Again, folk singer, but the
plan B is jazz trumpet player. – So I said you know,
that’s not a very support, I didn’t, this is not
exactly how I worded it, that’s not a very supportive
thing to say, now is it dad? But as I got older, I thought
about what my dad said, and there’s that funny thing. Like as you get older, your
parents seem to get smarter. I don’t know how that works, but, and I thought about what my dad said. Yeah, he’s like, remember
Gale said that to you. But he’s right, everybody does have to eat and it’s something that
you need to survive. It’s something that connects us, you know like I mentioned
before that’s an art form. – It’s a sacred thing. – It’s a covenant almost.
– We put it in our bodies. Think about how intimate that is. – And how you feel about the
people that cook for you. I mean, those are some of the closest relationships you have, and they have huge impact on you. You know, your grandmother
who made that marble cake, or you know there’s just
so many stories of this, this intense closeness that
really came through food. And being in the restaurant business, I’ve found that like, if they put me on the project
of solving world peace, I would bring everyone
to not just the table, but the dinner table. I have to put on weddings where there’s like two sides of the family that are a-feuding, and somehow when you get to a wedding with food on the table in front of you, they can’t remember what
they were fighting about, and somehow it just kind of, it fixes everything and I
love that I’m in a field that can do that for
people, that can heal you. You know, but at the same
time it’s so exciting. Just going to a grocery
store now is so fun. Well you see all these crazy– – No it’s, it used to be–
– There’s fresh chickpeas in a, have you ever seen
fresh chickpeas in the pod? They kinda look like a peanut. – Yeah.
– They’re green, who knew? Dates on the vine. – Talks about coming to America and finding you know green beans in a can. He’s like, you have all
these ethnic restaurants, but I can’t find a fresh
green bean to save my life. What have you people done? – It’s changed.
– Yeah, it has. – We’ve come so far in 40 years. Every week I buy odd things
I see in the grocery store and I bring them to one of
the classes I’m teaching. So last week there were
these little fuzzy green kind of oval-shaped guys, and I passed them around the class–
– Kiwis? – They were fresh almonds. – Oh, oh.
– Yeah. Just at my grocery store. – Cool.
– Why, you ask? I don’t know. They have whole lychees,
they have ramatans, – Yeah.
– Cool stuff. There’s just incredible– – So you have a great story. We’re gonna zigzag around. You have a great story
about cooking at home and you’ve gotta move and you’re cooking for your husband now, the
husband of your twins, Ruby and–
– Ella. – Ella, and he called you on this move and your retort was… – Okay, I know the story. So my current husband, gone through three now (mumbling) I’m with husband number three. I think I got it this time though. This one’s like, how
long we’ve been married? I think we’ve married like 16 years. So anyway I’m making him
shrimp risotto right? And you know risottos like this creamy, delicious, hot–
– Yeah you gotta (whooshes) and the air and the–
– Yeah, and well, and you’re just adding
stock and stirring it in and adding stock and stirring it in and then I sauteed some green shrimp, I mean excuse me, some pink shrimp, add that to the risotto, some green peas. So I’ve got this like pink
and green thing going, if you can picture it, and I dump the risotto into
this big hand-painted bowl. My husband’s Sicilian,
his family’s Sicilian, and I think, ooh, I’ll
do a little tableside, ’cause that always makes
things special you know? like if you saw something at the table– – Bring in the Tru home.
– Grate a little truffle over it or something. You can charge like 10
more bucks for something. So like, I’ll do some tableside at dinner. So I’ll get like a block of parm out, and I get my cheese grater, and I’ll like grate
some cheese from on high and it’ll come down like snow and hit that hot risotto, and just melt, and be (groans).
(audience chuckling) Yeah, and my husband watches me like take the block of parm to the
grater and start to grate and he goes really? Dairy with seafood? – And you say?
– And I say gee honey, I don’t know where your
James Beard Awards are, but mine–
(audience laughing) And I pull them out of my pocket. I’m like, mine are right here. (audience applauding) Poor guy, right? My poor husband. Like, he doesn’t stand a chance, and if he ever criticizes, like really, that wine
glass with that wine? Like, I get the best service
wine out and I’m like– (all laughing) I also bring these to job interviews, like if I’m pricing out a consulting job. My husband tells a story
about Shelley Winters. When she was– – The actress?
– They asked her to read for the Poseidon Adventure and she already had
her Oscar at that point and she was insulted that
she had to read for a part. So she brought her Oscar with. She walks in, she’s like, excuse me, where should
I put my Oscar down? (audience laughing) So I do that with my Beard Awards. I’m like, oh yeah, we’re
gonna negotiate my price? Where should I put my Beard
Awards down while we do that? Do you wanna hold them?
– Sure. – You wanna touch them?
– Yeah, just for a sec. – You can do selfie with them if you want.
– No, these are yours. Someday mine will come
for media if God wills it. If not, then that’s okay. Yeah, that’s okay. – Well you can borrow mine.
– I just want my kids to like me, yeah.
– That’s all that matters. – It’s all the matters, yeah. – So, if you wanna see these
later and try them on, you can. Those are the Beard Awards.
– There’s a, yeah, pretty cool. Yeah, you can all come
up and touch if you want, or what have you. – You know, the coolest
thing about the Beard Awards is you get to dress up. Like, I got an updo, you
know, I got my makeup done, and I had like a formal with
like killer underwear under it. I will never look that good again and it’s red carpet.
– Yeah, we’ve been. – Yeah, you know.
– Yeah. – And I remember when
I got my first award, you know, you’re thanking
everybody and you’re crying. And so, your makeup is
running, mascara is running. So after I get my award,
I’m like making a dart for the bathroom to kind of clean up, and clean up on aisle five there, and Bobby Flay intercepts me in the lobby. This is at Lincoln Square. He’s like Gale, Gale, do
you know what this means? And, which is sort of
like a trick question, like, where are we going? He’s like, you can double your day rate! (all laughing) And that’s what it meant to him. Of course, for me, it was you know, I can get back at my husband. – Right, yeah.
(all chuckling) – For credence’s own, right? – So, getting back to pastry. – I wanted to get back to Food Network. – We need to back to Food Network. – Well first of all, did anyone
watch my show Sweet Dreams? So do you guys, I have to apologize. I’m much shorter in person
and part of that is, they build our countertops, like me and Sara Moulton,
Sara Moulton and I, our countertops were built like six inches lower than normal. – Wow really?
– Because we were so short. – And actually the way I got my start was I was on Sara’s show.
– Yeah. – And my theory of why I was
so comfortable on her show was it was the first
time I ever had a counter where my elbows weren’t like up in the air when I was chopping. Like, it fit me for a change.
– That’s a real thing. – So I wasn’t you know
thinking about that. – Right.
– So I felt very comfortable. And from experiences I had on Sara’s show I was able to get invited
to do the first ever all-desert all-pastry show.
– Ever. – That Food Network ever did.
– Ever, yeah. – It’s funny to think now,
but it was a big risk. They didn’t know if
anyone would wanna watch people making desserts. – And this was in the days when Food Network was still special. – It was 2000 and 2010.
– Yeah. – But you know there
was a whole like Bobby, like I hear the meeting it’s
like, you know we’re so sick of all that grilled
chicken from Bobby Flay. Like, we need some chocolate on set, like get the, call Gale
Gand you know to come here and do some pastries.
– Yeah. – So I feel like it was more
for the staff originally. (audience laughs) For the viewing you know, the viewer, but there was like 30,000
viewers right away. That was a thrill. – So how did, so you’re doing Sara’s show, and you’re basically calling them saying, hi I’m in New York, or you’re– – I’m gonna be in New York next week. You know, do you have
any time on Sara’s show? And they would always say yes. And then I realized they always say yes. So I started calling and just lying, and saying I’m gonna be in New York, and if they invited me on the show I’d go buy a ticket really quick. And one of the times I did that I’m like, oh, I’m gonna be in New York next month and I’m saving some dates for you, and you know I’ve got two days open still. You know, would you want one of those. And they’re like nah now we’re good. And I’m like oh, because
I’m gonna be there and I really wanted to call you first and give you first pick, and they’re like nope we’re good. And I thought like who did I piss off at the Food Network?
– Right, right. – And they they kinda
let me hang on the phone, and it was like a pregnant pause. And they said, yeah, we don’t, we don’t wanna
have you on Sara’s show, because we want to
offer you your own show! (crowd gasps) Everyone, you get a car and you get a car. You know, it was like that moment. You show and you get a show. – And you were already at Tru, and Tru is already a really big deal. I mean you and Rick
were really successful. – We were.
– Yeah. – But we were getting divorced right then. – I mean, so there were
some caveats, yeah, yeah. – Well the funny thing, well, as we were going
through the divorce, I’m already taping like
first season in my show, and I thought you know I
probably really should tell them, I’m getting divorced, because we were known
as like the chef couple. Yeah, like when we got our
top 10 best new chefs award, there were 11 top 10
best new chefs that year, because Rick and I were a couple. We each got one from Julia Child. I went to–
– Which by the way she’s got, she’s got her Madelyn pans. – I do.
– Gale has Julia’s Madelyn pans.
– I have Julia’s Madelyn pans. (crowd gasps)
I’m the keeper of those. And if you have any heirloom cake pans, or anything that you want
taken care of, I’m your girl, or recipe card files, I’m your girl. Anyway I went to the,
my producer and said, you know, there’s probably
something I should tell you. I’m going through a divorce. And at the time, Donna Hanover was a
personality on the show and was married to Rudy Giuliani, and was that famous he
was having an affair. And they’re like, that’s nothing Gale. We got we got Donna Hanover. – We got bigger stuff.
(audience laughs) – I’m like oh, like I was so ashamed that her divorce was like
more interesting than mine. Okay, okay, nevermind. – You’re just food people
this is a politician. – But the best thing
about Food Network for me, besides it’s like doubling my book sales, you know, butts and
seats in my restaurant, is it pays for my son’s college. – Oh.
– That’s pretty great. – So first couple seasons, I just stuck it in a 529, let it grow. Gio was like three and
four and five at the time. And when Gio went off to
college when he was 18, five years ago for the four-year plan, that took five years. Yeah, apparently four year
program takes five years now. I made him a T-shirt that says Food Network paid for my college. (audience laughs)
And he wore it. He’s graduating Monday. I secretly wish that he
has it on underneath. – Yeah.
– His gown. – Absolutely, he should. – And you know even though
my show went off the air, I try to write a thank-you
note to Food Network every couple of years, ’cause it really did change my life. You know, TV legitimizes you in a way that nothing else does.
– Don’t I know it. – And I say thank you.
(audience laughs) And then I remind them about the twins and how their 529 account isn’t filled up, and if they’ve got another
show that would be great. – Right.
– ‘Cause they’re 14 now. – Yeah, better get.
– We did, we did. We’re good. Don’t need that show,
but I’ll still take it. – You cooked in an all-woman kitchen. – I did. – And we were talking
earlier with Chef Mary, who’s here who’s an alum. Mary, are you? Yeah, there we go, who just became the exec
chef or chef de cuisine. – Exec.
– Exec chef at the Driftless Cafe. – Which means.
(audience applauds) We always joke the difference between a executive chef and chef de cuisine, chef de cuisine gets knife cuts, executive chef gets paper cuts. – That’s right, that’s right. I don’t mean that you don’t work hard, it’s just, it’s all that paperwork! – Yeah, we had some conversations before about women and restaurants
and what’s changed and that we even talk about women, that women chef is a
term which is ridiculous, but talk about your– – Well, someday we won’t need– – Someday we won’t need– – To differentiate out women chefs. – We’ll just say chef.
– Right. – Talk about when you were
working for Jonathan Waxman. And so, Jonathan Waxman for those who, see, he’s, Jeremiah Tower, Jonathan Waxman, California cuisine that
happens in the ’70s and ’80, really the ’80s and he comes to New York, and he brings California
cuisine to New York. Stake in the ground,
this is what it means, and it’s immediately a
sellout restaurant and– – Cover of New York Times.
– Cover of New York Times. – Darling of Vogue Magazine.
– All of it. – Yeah, so Jonathan is like
the first celebrity chef I ever worked for, and one of the very early
ones in New York City. And he hires an all-female kitchen staff. I don’t I still don’t know this day if it’s intentional or not. – Yeah, well he hired a chef de cuisine. – Stephanie was the chef de
cuisine, so you think she? – That’s how it’s told in the industry and John, and Waxman’s just, I think it just goes with it now. – Okay.
– Yeah. – So when I got there it was 1985 and I didn’t get hired for pastry. They already had someone
doing pastry during the day, but I was a line cook at night, and the thing about that
kitchen was all women. So we all sort of checked on each other and made sure each other was
okay and ready for service. And you know, do you need help getting
your baby veg prepped, ’cause it looks like
you’re running behind. It was a very caring kitchen and I’ve ever worked in another
kitchen like that at all. We were all cross trained, so we all knew each position on the line, and every day we came into work and you got to pick which station you wanted to work.
– Whoa. – So I was like I’m gonna be–
– Choose your own adventure. – Fry girl today. Yes, so you could mix
it up and change it up, which meant if you needed a day off, someone else knew your job.
– Yeah. – So it was very easy to you know kind of have a life.
– Right. – As well as a job.
– Yeah. – So unique great stuff and
then it was an open kitchen. That was sort of a first. There weren’t many open
kitchens back then. – Yeah, I mean that whole
California aesthetic of like the open kitchen and the Bistro and see the flame in the background and deconstruct it all, ’cause we’re just groovy wearing shorts, and it’s not a big deal? – So we, yeah, we wore wigs. We wore like magenta blue
wigs and red lipstick, and like we dressed the
part, we dressed up for it. But the other thing is you
could see the customers. Like, I could see Nora
Ephram when she came in. And I could see, who’s the
guy that played the Penguin? – Danny DeVito?
– Danny DeVito? – No not in the movie, in the TV show. – Oh oh, oh! – Burgess Meredith.
– Burgess Meredith. – Yeah, like Burgess
Meredith sitting at the bar. And you can see him. – Yeah.
– You know, this is the ’80s. – Sure yeah, so that was still a thing. – Yeah.
(all chuckling) So it was a really unique situa-, and I run into Jonathan
you know at Beard Awards, and events all the time and
get to thank him and check in and I sort of have this, I
still know all those recipes. Like once you learn
recipes at a restaurant, they don’t go away. Like, Rick worked at Wendy’s
Old Fashioned Hamburgers when he was 15, he can
still make that chili. Like, he knows the ratios and everything. So I wanna go back and like
do Jams like one night. They reopened Jams, like in New York, and I have a fantasy of like all of us will go back for
one night and we’ll rock it. – Do it like a pop up, historical pop up. – Yeah.
– Yeah, yeah. How did you know that
pastry was your thing? – I didn’t.
– And then, that doesn’t help my question. (audience laughs)
– I’m sorry. – And then where did you where
did you take it from there once you didn’t know
pastry was your thing? – Well you know, it was
my chef Greg Broman. He’s the one that put me in pastry. He didn’t like the pastry chef he had. Roger wasn’t reliable. And he’s like, Gale, can you just come and do pastry for me? I was already like making a
living as a silver and goldsmith and a jeweler and a diamond setter. I’m in my studio by myself all alone in my little world.
– Working in a restaurant too? – There was one year
where I stopped working. After I graduated from college I stopped working restaurants
and I just did art full time.
– Okay. – And Greg kinda like pulled
me out of my little world and said, can’t you come back? You know, just do pastry for
me for six months, and then, and I said you know, I really
don’t want to go into pastry. It’s where they stick girls. You know, I don’t want to get
typecast at such a young age. And he said I’ll just, just six months, just give me six months
and then I’ll pull you out. And I’m like, okay I’ll do this for you, ’cause he had hired me all through college to work at various
restaurants where he was. And after six months
he came to me and said, okay you know I know I
made a deal with you. Are you, you know, where do
you want to be in the kitchen? I’m like eh, give me like another six months. Like this isn’t so bad. And it turned out that I had
the manual dexterity for it and the finesse and the
eye and the OCD of it. – Well you’d been thinking
jewelry and art for a long time. – Right, it’s not very different. – Yeah.
– It’s just one’s edible and one’s not.
– Right, but physics and, well no, but physics
and chemistry of pastry. – Yes.
– Yeah. – And I you know, in pastry
you’re using a blowtorch to caramelize a creme brulee. So it’s the same as silversmithing. I can do oxy-acetylene too, not on a creme brulee,
but on like, iron work. – Right. – But it turned out that I was just really well-suited for it. And it’s like an independent
part of the kitchen. You’re a kitchen within the kitchen. So most chefs don’t really get pastry. They don’t wanna do it,
they don’t understand it. It’s a different lobe of your brain that they just have not developed, and they’re so happy to have someone else
worry about that one area. You know they can’t job
out a lot of what they do, but that’s that one area they can like, you know, you just take care of dessert. You know, take care of–
– Right. – Like when I was Charlie
Trotter’s pastry chef, you know they’re just so happy that you’re doing this
whole part of the meal that they don’t have to think about it. – And it’s a huge profit
center if done right. – It is.
– Yeah. – You know.
– Big secret by the way. – Flour doesn’t cost that much. – Yeah, cocktails, yeah, that makes money, but a baked pastry. – Yeah.
– Man. – And you know it’s not like protein that’s really expensive, all the ingredients,
it’s mostly the labor. – Right, right.
– And you know at Tru, I had like 120% dessert sales. Like you can do that at some places. Not at all places.
– Right. – But it’s a big responsibility
being a pastry chef. It’s the goodbye kiss,
it’s the you know, fine, and you’re also, you’re the bread often. So you’re like the first impression, you’ve got that pressure. And then you’re the last thing people see, and you know and they’ve
got alcohol in between. (audience laughs)
So it’s not. Though I remember, so at Tru we did these degustation menus. – Yeah.
– Right, they’re like, you know, 10 courses, and
Rick is doing foie gras four different ways for
your table, awesome. And when we first opened I remember, yeah, and he sends out extra courses. You know, he’s like super generous. – We’ve eaten, he’s fed us. – Okay so you know it’s like.
– Yeah. – So I send out desserts,
I send out a little amuse, and I send out dessert.
– I texted him back, and he said, you’re
dead to me, by the way. (Gale laughs) That was like, this is so
great, but you’ll like. – You kill me.
– Yeah. – So I remember the first couple of weeks what you do as a chef when
you’re opening a restaurant is you go stand at the dish table and you watch plates that
come back from the dining room to see if people left food. And if they left a large portion of it, it means they maybe didn’t like the dish. So you send a waiter to inquire and maybe take it off the bill, I shouldn’t tell you that secret, but that’s what wait-,
good restaurants do. Or if there’s like one or two bites left, do you think like, hmm, maybe
I’m giving too big a portion. Like you can learn a lot
from what comes back, and desserts were coming
back sort of half-eaten, and Rick’s like, I don’t
think they like your desserts. And I said, oh, it’s not
the nine courses before that that you gave them.
– Right. – But they were just too full. So he scaled back his food, and then then mama got some success. (all laughing) – While you’re going through a divorce. – Yes.
– Yeah, all of that. – I don’t know what’s
harder, an opening or div-, I think an opening is harder than going through a divorce.
– Really? – Yeah, they’re brutal, man. Anybody here done a,
you’ve done an opening. Yeah, you don’t sleep. You’ve done an opening. Yeah, it ages you, right? I was a size six shoe when I started this. I’m a nine now.
(audience laughs) – So one more quick
story about a rolling pin and then let’s, let’s do some pastry. – And you know I, so I used to travel with my great-grandmother
Jenny’s rolling pin. She came over from Budapest in 1906, and I actually looked it up. You can go to ellisisland.org and like find if your relatives
came through Ellis Island. You can find the manifest of
the ship that they were on and see like how much money
they had in their pocket and what diseases they were tested for and what address they give of where as to where they’re going after they, you know, get off the ship, you can get a lot of information. So my great-grandma
Jenny comes over in 1906 with three kids. She’s in steerage. You know, we’re poor Jews from Hungary. She’s probably got like
six rye breads with her, and you know. She’s got eight dollars and
four cents in her pocket. – A bunch of money actually at the time. I mean not tons, but it’s something. – Right, it’s something, and this rolling pin. So I mean think about that idea of, you know, your house is
on fire what do you grab? And we used to know the
answer was the photographs, ’cause they weren’t replaceable. So now, that’s not the answer. – Right, they’re all in the cloud. – Don’t know what the answer
is now, what do you grab? But you know, she’s going to America for the rest of her life, doesn’t speak the language,
her husband is already there. She’s schlepping three kids. My grandpa George is six at the time. That’s who Gio, Georgio is
named after, Grandpa George. And she bring it’s the rolling pin that she can’t live without. Like I just love that story and that idea, and that that DNA that
is, you know, part of me. – That was part of your moment, that seventh second.
– Like, no one is surprised that I’m a pastry chef. And I used to travel with it. I remember when I got my
Top 10 Best New Chef Award, I was on stage with Julia Child, and I had the rolling pin with me. Like I used, it was
sort of like my mascot, until I was going through TSA
in San Francisco one year, and the TSA guy is like, oh, my god you’re that pastry lady. I watch your show, I love your show. You’re that girl that
does all those desserts, and then he pulls the rolling
pin out of my carry-on and says you’re gonna have to check this. And I’m like you know
what I do for a living. He goes, this could be
considered a weapon. (audience laughs)
And then I thought, well, maybe that’s why my grandma
Jenny brought it with her. (audience laughs)
‘Cause it could be a weapon. Right, she’s so smart, self-defense. Yeah.
– Yeah. – When I met my husband I, he saw me making pies with
Gio with the rolling pin and he asked, I just think
this is an amusing question, He asked, how many pies
has that rolling pin made? – Right.
– So it’s 5th generation now. – That’s an amazingly insightful question. – And I don’t know how to do that math. I think we tried to do
it, you know at one point, and I don’t remember the answer, but just that idea of
how many times that pin has created something.
– That’s fed someone. – Some of it would have been strudel, from my great-grandmother and my grandma. And you know, my family was poor. I find recipes in my grandma’s card file. There’s a recipe for cabbage strudel, that has like sugar and
cinnamon and raisins in it, and I say, Grandma, ew. Like really, cabbage strudel? She goes, we were so poor
we couldn’t afford apples, but if you put enough
cinnamon sugar on anything it tastes like apples. So they’d use cabbage, ’cause
that’s what they could get. – Yeah, well let’s make
some chocolate which is– – Do you wanna do–
– Decadent and lovely. – Yes.
– And I hear you do it well. – I like working with
chocolate, I do, yeah. Alright let’s go cook, thank you. (relaxing guitar music)
(audience applauds) – So Gale was excited that I could assist. – I have something for you.
– Yeah? – I brought you a Gale’s
Root Beer T-shirt. – Oh sweet!
– This is a gift for you. You don’t have one already, do you? – No I don’t. – It’s an extra large, so
maybe it’s PJs for you, but. – Yeah, do you know, so you all know that aside from being America’s
first lady of pastry, two James Beard Awards, eight books, 10 years on the Food Network
and The Cooking Channel, she also has a root beer company. And if you haven’t had
her, yes right there. – I brought some with us.
– It is really good root beer. And I’m an aficionado
on a couple of things. One is chocolate chip cookies. I’ve probably eaten 4,000. – But who’s counting?
– But who’s counting. – Right.
– And the other, I don’t know if an aficionado, but a good root beer is really.
– Thank you. Mine has got cinnamon
and ginger root in it, and then Nielsen-Massey vanilla. So it’s a little more complex.
– The good stuff. – Sort of chefy root beer, right? – Do you know about–
– And my first husband did the label and did that drawing. – Oh, right on.
– He’s a cartoonist and an animator. He didn’t last either.
– Well, keeping the, keeping the marriages useful. (Gale laughs) – So I wanted to do three
chocolate recipes tonight. – Okay.
– But first I just wanna do a little chocolate lesson real quick just to give you a sense of
how complex this stuff is. Does anyone know what this is? – Can yeah, and can you
all see on the cameras if we’re right here, correct? – No.
– No. – No.
– I’ll hold stuff up. Don’t worry.
– Okay. – This is a cacao pod.
– Right here? (audience members speaking faintly) – So a cocoa pod. So this is what grows on a
cacao tree, a chocolate tree. – Mm-hmm?
– And inside here. (beans rattling)
Hear that? Those are the cocoa beans,
the cacao beans inside. So when these are harvested from the tree, they’re weird, they don’t grow like apples and hang down like low-hanging fruit. They grow like right out of the trunk. So you kind of break them off this way. The blossoms are right along the trunk and right along the
branches of a cacao tree. So you kind of break them off. – Almost like brussels sprouts kind of. – Yeah, that’s a good way to put it. They’re usually sort of
yellow and orange and green. This one is old and dried, so that’s why it’s dark brown. But in order to open this bad boy up, you have to use a machete.
– Yeah. – So what these guys do is
they throw them in the air and they like machete ’em in half. – Wow. – So and they throw them
like over on top of a pile, like whoops, sorry. Like up, and then uh, and it falls down into a pile. – That’s its own skill set.
– Yes, completely. And what’s inside are
these slimy white beans that look like lima beans actually, but, and they’re tightly packed in there. So how we got chocolate from that, like I wanna meet that guy.
– Well, it was the Mayans. – Right. – It was the Mayans and
the Spaniards went, oh. And then brought, I mean all
chocolate comes from that, you know will bring–
– Cortez came. – Yeah we’ll bring diphtheria.
– Yeah. – And other things.
– And we’ll steal all your gold, your vanilla
mines, and your cacao tree. – Exactly, yeah, and your potatoes. – Joke is on him, joke is on Cortez. He didn’t seal the malepon bee that pollinates the vanilla.
– That pollinates the vanilla. Which took a slave, in
Haiti, a lot of years later, but that’s another.
– Do do with the, that’s the vanilla side. – That’s the vanilla story, yeah, right. – But I got to do that,
I got to go to Tahiti, and they call it marrying the vanilla. – Vanilla?
– Yeah. – Cool.
– That you pollinate it. Anyway, these, I don’t know
where can you see this. Is that on camera? – A little bit further this way? – Is that on camera?
– The stove, the stove. – Stove.
– But which part of the stove? – There you are.
– There? Alright those are the cacao beans and these have been roasted, alright? So this is what gets a
ground up into chocolate. They get sort of crushed up into bits,
those are cocoa nibs. Maybe you’ve seen those
on desserts lately. They’re kinda trendy. That’s just a crushed
up cocoa, cacao bean. And then that’s ground
further and further, and it kind of eventually
turns into sort of a liquid, a sort of cocoa mass they call it, and then they separate out
the fat from the solids. – Which is cocoa butter. – Yeah, and this is cocoa butter. The fat is cocoa butter.
– Yep. – And the cocoa solids, if they remove even more
fat it becomes cocoa. So what they do to make chocolate is they’ll mix those back
together in different ratios, some of the cocoa mass,
some of the cocoa butter, and then sometimes some sugar. So if you see chocolate bars
in the grocery store now, they’ll have a percentage on them, right? – This one has been eaten, Gale. I see it’s open, yeah. – It’s been used.
(audience chuckles) – So this is 60%, right?
– Right. – So this means that 60%
of what’s in this bar is cocoa mass and cocoa butter. – And the rest?
– And the rest is sugar, maybe a little lecithin.
– Okay. – So the lower the number,
the higher the sugar. – Right.
– Right? So what does that mean, so what’s 100%? – Not sweet at all.
– No sugar. This is unsweetened chocolate.
– Bitter. – Right?
– Yeah. – So that’s what those percentages mean if you ever wondered, ’cause I know in the grocery store now, they’re kinda expecting us to know that and calling out you know the percentage. And you know, ’cause your life needs to be more complicated, right? Like as if wine wasn’t enough, but now we have to like see
the back notes of chocolate. Ugh, alright so what I
thought we would make today was do three recipes. Do you guys have recipes out there? ‘Cause I might be calling
upon you to read stuff for me or remind me of quantities
or temperatures. We’ve got three recipes we’re
gonna do tonight hopefully. We’re gonna make some
chocolate pot de creme, which is kind of like the
best chocolate pudding ever. When I was cooking for
the president of China and cooking for Mayor
Daley’s wife, Maggie Daley, I had to find a dessert
that they would both like. And she loves chocolate, but Chinese don’t really have
chocolate in their repertoire. So I did a duet, and I did like a ginger cake.
– Okay. – With roasted pineapple
and gold leaf on it ’cause he’s the president of China. So how do you, right? And then for Maggie, I did the best chocolate
pudding in the world. which is chocolate pot de creme. So we’re gonna do that. It’s a French dessert that’s really just a super smooth delicious chocolate pudding and you do get tastes of everything. We’re gonna make some chocolate bouchon, which are little cork
shaped chocolate cakes. The word bouchon means cork. So I’ll teach you how to make that. And then we’re gonna do some, a white chocolate ganache
sauce to go with the Bouchon. We’ll plate that up, a little
few raspberries on there. And then we’ll do a quick
batch of chocolate mousse. – Wow.
– All right, hopefully. – So let’s start with
the end of all of these, we’re gonna have the
samples coming out for you. I hope you all had sensible dinners and ate your vegetables, because dessert is just gonna keep coming. And that’s how this is gonna roll, yeah. – We’re gonna make the bouchon in something called a timble, which is just like a little–
– Silicone. – Right, though sometimes
you’ve got metal ones as well, but I’ve got silicone
here that are nonstick. That’s we’re gonna use to bake them in, so they come out. So let’s just go through the recipe. I sort of like to read my roadmap first. And then I know where I’m going. So we’ve got some flour,
some cocoa powder. We’ve got salt, three eggs here, some sugar, some vanilla. There’s the vanilla right there. Some melted butter, they already melted for me, some good cocoa powder, a little bit confectionery
sugar, that’s for garnish later. We’ve got our oven preheated to 350? Double-check.
– It is. – Got our molds ready to go. We’ve got a piping bag here, ’cause that’s how we’re
gonna get the batter from one place to another. – Ooh, can I snip it.
– Yeah. – Then I can do something useful. – Yeah, you like to–
(audience laughing) Alright so what we’re gonna do, what we wanna do is in a bowl, we’re gonna sift together the flour, the cocoa powder, and the salt. Those are the sort of the dry ingredients. And in the mixer here
we’re gonna whip together the eggs and the sugar till
they’re really fluffy and pale, like you know lemon yellow. Sometimes they call it a ribbon stage. And we’ll mix in the vanilla then. Then on low we’ll start
adding the dry ingredients, alternating with the melted butter ’til everybody is incorporated. And then lastly we’re gonna add, as if that cocoa powder is not enough, we’ll add a little more chocolate. – So what percent is that chocolate? And whose chocolate is
it, Calvado is that? – Callebaut, I’m not sure. Susan, is Callebaut chocolate? And is it the D811? I’m just guessing, but is it? That’s my favorite. Isn’t that your favorite too, D811? – D811.
– Well, I love Callebaut, ’cause it’s actually it’s very forgiving and easy to work with. It’s not persnickety as
opposed to Valrhona chocolate, which pastry chefs love, and they have, you know, 18 different varieties, but it’s kind of, it’s more touchy. So Callebaut I find
is, you know, reliable, and don’t have to be
quite as careful with it. – It’s, if you’re not a
pastry chef by profession, it’s a professional chocolate
that pastry chefs and bakeries and things like that order
in good sized quantities, but it’s also very specific for, – Valrhona you’re talking about? – No, Callebaut.
– Callebaut. And it’s from Belgium. We actually have a Callebaut
store in Lake Forest. – Oh, you do. I didn’t think they had retail stores. Well, Bernard, which
is one of the brothers, kinda branched off on his
own and started a store. So it’s nice, we have access to it. Valrhona is a French chocolate and it comes from the Rhone Valley, which is why it’s called Valrhona. And there was one summer
where I was teaching cooking on a river cruise through
France on the Rhone River and we would go about five
minutes from Valrhona, and I made the whole ship like a minute of silence as
we go past Valrhona. (all chuckling) So, alright. So we’re gonna go ahead, I’ve
got a whisk attachment here, three eggs are going in. – So these three eggs
are going into a mixer that has a name that some
of you have heard of, but more importantly Vollrath makes a really damn fine mixer and they are big supporters
of the series, sponsors, and you should check out their mixer, and that’s all I’m gonna
say on the subject. – Before I do that last egg. So you notice I kind of like
hit it against this sharp edge? One time I was taking
a sugar pulling class from Albert Cuman. – You know, I’ve never said that. I’ve never said one time I was
taking a sugar pulling class. – He’s, was a chef at the Four Seasons, pastry chef at the Four Seasons. So I walk into the class. He had a pastry school
outside of New York. I walk in the class and
Jacques Pepin is there. – Taking the class?
– Well I think to myself, you know if I signed up with a for a class with Jacques
Pepin, I think I’d remember. Wouldn’t you remember that?
– Yeah, I would remember. – Yeah, he was a student in the class. – Oh, cool.
– Nicest guy. – Yeah.
– Nicest guy. but when I was breaking
an egg on a sharp-edge, she’s like oh, cher, no no
no no no no, not like that. I’m like what? He goes, no no, you might
get eggshell in your egg. You have to do it on a flat surface. – I learned that from his show years ago. – Right. – It was the only thing I
knew about cooking by the way when I started mine, but I– – Did you, on a flat surface? And French housewives actually, they like click two eggs together. That’s how they break them, which is why there’s never just
one egg in a French recipe, ’cause like, how would you?
– ‘Cause you’re, right. Yeah, you’re committed.
– So I’m just telling you now, if you are ever in something
and Jacques Pepin is there and you have to crack an egg, you do it on a flat surface and tell him Gale Gand taught you that. And she does it that way every time, okay? – So I have two good Jacques
Pepin stories really quickly. We’re filming the show, first season. God bless the late Joe Bartolotta who hooked us up with Jacques Pepin in the very first season. The show that didn’t
have like seven viewers and we’re filming with Jacques Pepin and it’s a dinner that he’s doing at one of Joe’s restaurants, Bacchus, and it’s in support of one of his books. And I’ve interviewed Jacques
and I spent time with him and I’m thinking he’s been
interviewed by 100,000 people and everybody knows everything
about his cooking career. So I did this deep deep
deep deep deep research and I found out that he got
a master’s in French poetry. So I’m a recovering poet.
(audience chuckles) And so, I talked French poetry with him, which I knew very little
about, like four names, but at least we connected on that. And I feel that we have a kinship and I still am going to tell myself that, whether it’s true or not.
(Gale laughs) And it comes to the lunch and it was, it was a cookbook lunch for chefs only. So he was great that way, because he was gonna do a
larger thing later that night, but for this lunch if you were a chef, you came at a reduced price. You sat with Jacques
and you had to come in. – But you had to plate
up your own food, right? – No no no, but you had to come– – Like the James Beard Awards. – Yeah.
– Sorry. – No like I was, I’m in the Chicago Chefs Hall of Fame, and they make you cook for
the party for your induction. – For your own party?
– Yeah. Yes, so that’s–
– For your birthday, do you make your own cakes too? – Yes, of course, I made
my own wedding cakes, and that’s three of them, so hmm. (audience laughs)
I’m sorry. I’m interrupting your story.
– It’s okay, no no no. So all these chefs in
their whites are coming in. It’s a beautiful restaurant. It’s our daughter’s favorite restaurant. That’s where she had her birthday, and Jacques turns to me and he says, and I’ll never get the accent right, but it was something like
Kyle you’re a chef, no? And I said no I’m not. I just work on the show. And he was like, you have
to leave the dining room. So I was thrown out of a dining room by Jacques Pepin, and I
was like, this is awesome! (audience laughs) So, I ate by myself at the bar. – Really?
– Yeah, and they filmed me. They stood where the bartenders stand and I’m talking about the food, and over my shoulder in
the other dining room are all these chefs in their whites enjoying it with Jacques Pepin. – Waving to you.
– Yeah, pretty much. Yeah, yeah.
– Yeah, yes. – Aww.
– So I got the naughty chair, and I always tell them
I’m happy with that. – That’s a sad story. When Rick and I went to Pablo Coos, I don’t know if he told you this story, we wanted to get our
picture taken with him and he wasn’t there that night and Rick had like rented
a tux, and you know. – Yeah.
– We were young. It was, I think we’re on our
honeymoon even at that time, and he wasn’t there. And they said you know
if you come back tomorrow during the day he’ll be here and you can get a picture with him. So we came back the next day. Rick put his tux back on, you know, like fully dressed in a cab at like 11:00 in the morning
on a Sunday in a tux. Get dropped off at the
restaurant, we get to meet him, we go to take a picture with him and he says you should take two pictures. and we’re like, why? He goes, so you don’t fight
over it when you get divorced. (audience murmurs)
– Oh, my god. – He knew we were both chefs. And then, he invites us
for lunch in the kitchen. – Oh, wow. – So we got to sit at the
kitchen table of Pablo Coos. – But years later as you were
getting a divorce, he came to your restaurant Tru.
– He did. – That you won a James Beard for. – And we thanked him.
– Yeah. – Actually I thanked of
the night I was getting my, I got Top Pastry Chef
from Bon Appetit Magazine. – Mm-hmm. – They held it Le Cirque in New York and Pablo Coos was there, and I got to tell him the
story of how right he was. You know at the time I
thought it was so rude, and then it was like,
he was completely right that we didn’t fight over
the beaux Coos picture. That night in New York
for Bone Appetit Magazine, it was September 10, 2001. (audience groans)
Yeah. – Yeah, yeah.
– Charlie Trotter was there. He bought a car and drove out of town. We were all trying to rent cars, silly us. He just bought one. – That’s how.
– That’s how Charlie got home. I was stuck there for a week.
– That’s how he rolls. – Right.
– Yeah. – It was a black-tie affair, and I invited my husband and
he couldn’t get off work. So I’m like, who else do
I know that has a tux? And I thought, I know, my dad, ’cause he’s a jazz trumpet player. – Right.
– So he’s got a tux for work. So I invite my dad to come to New York and I decide to use that opportunity to thank him for all the– – Sure.
– I have a lot of great skills and I attribute a lot of them to my Dad. You know just good, you know work skills and perseverance and never giving up. And I got to thank him
which was really nice and then the next day was 9/11. But I got, you know, it’s
sort of a strange thing, I got this gift which is, I got a week with my dad in New York when any restaurant would
take you without a reservation dressed anyway you were, they didn’t care. – That’s true. – And I got to like hang
out with my dad for a week and you know hear his
Army stories and all that. So it actually turned out to not be the worst week of my life. Alright, we’ve got the cocoa powder, flour, salt sift in here. We’ve alternated it
with the melted butter. Now we’re gonna go ahead and add that last bit of chocolate. – And the only thing that’s really a subtle nuance with this recipe is if you have a Vollrath mixer, it really comes together like, like iron.
– Yeah. This almost isn’t working for me. – Yeah, yeah. We’ll get by. Andy, you’re actually it’s funny, ’cause the Vollrath mixers
are in the pastry lab. And so, what you’ll be eating was made with a Vollrath mixer. So all the best for our
guests, no question. – So we’re gonna pipe this. What you’ve gotta think about, ’cause you’re gonna be snipping. – Yeah, oh! – It’s gotta be big enough hole that those chips fit through it. – Okay.
– So you snip. – Okay, well, you stop me. I’m gonna go here.
– No more, yeah, there. – Okay.
– Alright. So I’ve got a pastry bag here. I know a lot of people are
sort of afraid of them, but you’ve been using one your whole life. – We I mean actually, we at
home are not, we love them, because typically we’re using, what are they called, Ziploc bags. – Oh.
– That we cut a hole in the bottom, yeah. – No, it’s just like a toothpaste tube. It just is a thing to get goo
from one place to another. And same rules apply. Squeezing from the middle,
divorce is eminent. – Right. – Don’t squeeze the
toothpaste in the middle. Don’t squeeze a pastry
bag from the middle. – Gravity works the same way for this one.
– Yeah, what I do is just kind of roll down the top edge so you’ve got a clean part and you’ve also kinda got
a way to hang on to it. So what I do is I just make
sort of a C shape with my hand, and you know, let it rest on that. And now we’ve got a place for it to live. Do, I just wanna, I’ll show you the trick on another one, but what you can do, hold on I’ve got some tips here, to keep the–
– This is called Gale’s bag of tricks. – Yeah, to keep the gravity
from being a problem, let’s find a plain tip in here, but it’s gotta be big enough, there we go. So you know everything’s gonna just fall out the bottom there
’cause of gravity, right? So instead what we can do, we can take a tip and
just throw it in there, and then you can twist the
bag and shove it into the tip, and now you’ve plugged the hole. So now, it won’t come out as you fill it. And don’t feel like you have
to fill it with everything. You know, you put as much in there as you’re comfortable with, and I just kind of swipe
it across my thumb there. There we go. And then we’re just gonna pipe it into these. So these don’t need buttering
or flouring or anything. – Look at how smooth that was. – Are you a piper, do you pipe?
– You’ve done this before. How well do you want them to come out? – It’s like I said, it’s like toothpaste. you’re just getting gooey stuff
from one place to another. – Oh, no I know that,
I know the principles. It’s just the technique and execution. – Well, what the deal with piping is your left hand actually
isn’t supposed to do anything except guide where the bag goes. So when I’m first teaching piping, I have you just use one hand. – Alright let’s do it, but I just need to tell you that when– – You’re right-handed, right? – No no no, yeah, I’m right-handed. – So you’re applying pressure
with your right hand. Your left is allowed to touch it, but don’t be tempted to like scoosh it. – Okay, when I piped macaroons
with Jackie Pfeiffer, he was very patient with me, and then he just diplomatically
pulled the tray away and put another one.
– And scraped them off. – Just just did the whole, yeah. – No, you’re doing good. – We’re gonna start all
over, is what he said in his French Alsatian accent.
– Yeah. – He’s crazy, because he’s from Alsace, which is on the corner
of Germany of France. And so, he has this lovely French accent, and then every once in a
while you’ll just hear, jah. (all chuckling)
– Yeah, he’s Alsace Lorraine. – Right, right. All right.
– How does it feel? – We need to scooch it down.
– I can refill you. – Yeah, refill me.
– Are you ready? – I am, I am. So my other Jacques Pepin
story that I’m dying to tell and probably the rest of you don’t care, but I have the microphone on
(audience laughs) is the James Beard Awards many years ago when Tory Miller, your
Tory Miller here in Madison won the James Beard Award. And we were out there with our cameras, because either Justin
Aprahamian of Sanford. or Tory was going to win, and we had two Wisconsin chefs. Chances are pretty good, otherwise we’ve wasted a lot of money. So I go out and film in New York. Luckily Tory won. I’m in the green room which
is the room like at the Oscars when they come offstage
and then they you know, woo and get a drink or what have you. And I’m in the green
room just killing time, ’cause that’s a really long ceremony and there’s nothing to do. And Jacques walks off the stage having just introduced somebody, and it’s a crowded little room
and there’s a bar at one end and there’s an entrance at the other. This is at Lincoln Center.
– Right. – And he walks right up to me and he says, Kyle I just screwed up, I
didn’t go to the rehearsal and I kinda screwed up
on the teleprompter. Now I’m amazed at a couple things. One, I’m standing in New York for James Beard Awards backstage, two, Jacques Pepin remembers my name, and three, he just walked up to me. So I say something like, chef it’s, I’m sure it’s not a big deal and everybody, you
know, understood anyway. Let’s go get a glass of champagne. So we turn and the entire crowd
parts as I walk to the bar with one of the most famous
chefs in the 20th century, and I think, you can all
kiss my butt right now, because I don’t care who won an award. I’m good for the rest of the day. (audience laughing) – That’s great, that’s a great story. We don’t have the ingredients for the white chocolate ganache do we? – We do.
– Where are they? (laughing) Okay, ’cause that one can
knock together really fast and then plate it up. So I’m just gonna teach you how to make a white chocolate ganache sauce. So ganache is a word
that just means chocolate combined with any kind of liquid. So like if you had chocolate and water, that could qualify as a ganache. – Isn’t that just hot chocolate? – Or–
(both chuckling) Yes.
– Yeah. – But drinkable.
– Yeah, right. – But my point is like you can
use orange juice in chocolate and that’s a ganache. You can use any kind of liquid. It doesn’t have to be cream, so the definition of a ganache
is just some kind of liquid mixed with chocolate.
– I didn’t know that. – So we’re gonna make a–
– I’m gonna tighten this up in your ear so they can hear you better.
– Go ahead. We’re gonna make–
– It was kinda dangling. – White chocolate ganache. So we’re just gonna heat up
four ounces of heavy cream and we’re gonna mix it with the same amount white chocolate. So four ounces of chocolate. So this is a ganache that’s equal parts. It’s one-to-one, we call that.
– One-to-one, right exactly. – If you wanted to make a whipped ganache, a ganache that would whip
up like whipped cream, you would do two-to-one. So two parts whipped cream to
one part chocolate, all right? – So let me take this pan off right? – Yeah.
– Yeah. – Off of this super dope
miracle pro Vollrath– – Right, I can’t wait to–
– Induction burner. – So can you warm that up for me? – This is, it’s like a Formula One race car that anybody can, anyone can drive. It is so precise. It is such a joy to work with, and it saved my wife and I from having an argument on Thanksgiving. – Oh that’s that good one. I’ve used those before, they’re great.
– Yeah, yeah. ‘Cause we needed an extra burner. We still had an argument
about other stuff, but we needed an extra
burner and this was awesome. – I’m just gonna put a little bit of orange rind in there to infuse, to get some extra flavor.
– Do you, is this good? – How high does it go?
– Hundred. – What’s the highest? Mmm, so maybe bring me to 60. – Okay.
– Okay. And then putting in just
some strips of orange rind, and we’re gonna infuse
that flavor into the cream. – Good Wisconsin cream, no doubt. Dairy state. – Probably 32%.
– Jones Dairy Farm. – Jones Dairy Farm cream.
– Is it? No, is it? And then I’ve got the four
ounces of white chocolate that we’re gonna whisk in. I really want to bring this to a boil. So can I go–
– Well, just go. – ‘Cause you said it was
like a race car right? – Yeah, it’s the best.
– Let’s do it. So the thing about induction is you need stainless steel pans. – Yeah, Vollrath makes a beautiful series, NUCU, just saying. – So we wanna bring this to a boil. I’m trying to think of something we can do while we wait.
– Which by the way, they were gonna be giving
away two of these pieces. So you’re all entered by
the nature of being here, and I will be calling that out later. So one, this great baking tray, and two, the nonstick skillet. – Oh look at that.
– From NUCU. – That was fast.
– Yeah. That’s what I’m saying. It’s like a formula one.
– Holy moly. I was gonna say why didn’t you tell me, but you did.
– It’s amazing. – You told me like four times.
– I did, it’s amazing. – Alright I’m gonna just turn this off. (all chuckling) That’s great.
– Right? – Yes, we’ll let that organe
rind infuse a little bit. And–
– I’m gonna– – Is it off? I thought I turned it off.
– I’m gonna bring that down, just ’cause–
– You can turn it off. – ‘Cause I worked for these. – I’m thought I turned it off.
– Yeah. – And, now I’m just gonna dump my white chocolate chips into there. – Which is pretty much
just butter fat, right? – It’s cocoa butter.
– Cocoa butter. – So the debate if you
get the trivia question, you know, is white chocolate chocolate? It’s got cocoa butter in
it, if it’s a good brand. – Yeah. – If it doesn’t have cocoa butter in it, it’ll say like white bark, or you know coating bark, or.
– Yeah. – But if it says white chocolate, that means there’s actual
cocoa butter in there, and that means, I think,
it’s really chocolate. – Yeah.
– Right? So just leave it in there, we’re
using the heat of the cream to melt the chocolate
and create our ganache. And just whisk ’til it’s
a nice smooth mixture. And I’m assuming that,
what’s in this Suzanne? Is the same thing? – Yes.
– Good, okay. And then you just strain this to take out the pieces of orange rind. – You could do lemon
rind, you could do mango. – Sure, you could do cinnamon sticks. – [Kyle] Cinnamon sticks, raspberry. – Vanilla, you could you know, throw a vanilla bean in there.
– Yeah. – You could throw cloves in, you could do, star anise
anything like that. So let’s plate up over here.
– Okay. – I’ve got a couple tools,
we’re gonna do three of them. Right? Is that what you want, Suzanne, you wanted three? Individuals? Okay. – I don’t think she’s gonna tell, you of more James Beard Awards than her. I don’t think she’s gonna tell you. – I’m just a help. – I think you made that clear early on. – So I’m just gonna do
like a little swoosh of the white chocolate ganache, this has been chilled, so it’s a little thicker which is nice, and then a little tumble of berries. I’ve got some raspberries here. Let’s just do one.
– Is this indicative of some of the desserts you would do at Tru? – They’re very precious like this, yeah. – Yeah. – And small, because of
Rick’s cooking, yeah. (audience chuckles) Actually, I’m gonna put
a second berry here. Right and you know, because
I have an art background, I’m not just looking at the contrast in flavors going on here. I’m also looking at the
contrast of color and texture and negative space on the plate, and I think that’s part
of what set me apart from some other chefs, because I have this design training. So I’m looking at this, you know I’m looking at the line, and how it makes your eye travel. It’s like a painting for me.
– Yeah. – So that’s one of the
sort of differences I think between some of my work
and other chefs work. And this is like shading, just a little bit of powdered sugar. – How many of you were at Rick’s demo? Okay, great. – Can you picture us together? No.
(audience laughs) – My point in that– – Oh, that’s not where you were going? – No! – You should see us do demos together. We like tease each other. – Yeah, I can only imagine. What happened at Tru–
– Stays at Tru. – Yeah.
– Right. – On the plate I mean with
Rick’s unique style of plating and then your artistic style of plating, you can see generate
through American cuisine. Both of them talk about the
kids of the graduating class, the Chris Pandel-s as in the Bristol, the Graham Elliot as in Graham Elliot, the Grant Achatz-es.
– He was just Elliot. – Yeah, right.
– Just so you know. – Yeah, right he was. – Like what’s he call himself now? – Yeah, Graham Elliot Bowles, what? – His parents came through
the kitchen once too, which was really cute. His dad’s a minister.
– Really? – Yeah, which is part of why he’s so, you know, sweet and contemplative. – Yeah, I can see that.
– Yeah. – Who else worked there? – I wasn’t listening to
the list, so I don’t know. – Okay, well anyway.
– Meg Galus. – Meg Galus, yeah.
– She was up for Beard Award. Probably her fourth time, in one day. – Yeah. – Della Gossett, she’s at Spago now. – Yeah. So as you see this style of plating if you dine out in America, what they were doing at Tru then had reverberations on
menus across the country and across part of how we eat and how our plates look, and that’s pretty cool, ’cause one of the people that created that is right here in front of you, and you’re about to try
one of her desserts. – Yeah, we’re gonna pass these out, right? – Yeah.
– Yeah. So here’s the chocolate bouchon. Looks just like a cork doesn’t it? And I do wanna say this
recipe is from Thomas Keller. If you ever go over to
Thomas Keller’s restaurant, Bouchon, our bakery, Bouchon Bakery, this is his bouchon recipe. – So no good idea lasts long. Apparently Gale Gand
didn’t have enough recipes after 10 years on television. She’s using one of Thomas Keller’s. (audience laughs) – I think he said he finally published it. Ooh, let’s all make it, right? Alright, we wanna do pot de creme next. – So that, his ad hoc recipe came
out, or book came out. – Yeah. – And I was judging a chef competition a bunch of years ago and one of the chef’s did a fried chicken recipe.
– Yeah. – And I mean his book had just come out, like two days before. – And they’re known for
their fried chicken. – Yeah, they know for their fried chicken. And I said in the microphone
this fried chicken is so good it’s probably as good as Thomas Keller’s, and later the chef came up to me and said, you totally busted me out. I bought, I got the book the day it
came out, and yeah, yeah. – That’s funny, that’s funny. Alright we’re gonna
make some pot de creme, which means you get to
eat pot de creme next. How’s the bouchon?
– Yeah, yeah. – Good?
(audience murmurs) Good good. Right? Ooh!
– Oh, goodness. – So we’re gonna?
– Yeah, it’s good? – Yeah, look at the eyes. – Yeah.
– Great. Pot de creme.
– Save me one, please? – Let’s just read through that one. – Culinary students, save me one. – Nah, we got the three up there. – Oh, we got the three up there too. – Not very many ingredients
to the pot de creme. – Pat, save two, my
wife is holding a baby. – Bittersweet chocolate, some egg yolks, some cream, sugar, salt, and a little bit of
whipped cream for garnish. So basically what we’re gonna do is heat up the cream and the salt together, and we’re gonna use that heat kinda the way we just did
now to melt our chocolate. So as soon as that comes to
boil I’m gonna turn it off. I’m gonna add the
chocolate and let it melt. And while that’s melting, I’m gonna whisk together
some yolks and some sugar. You don’t wanna mix that together before you’re ready to use it, ’cause sugar has this tendency to draw moisture out of things. It draws it out of the air. If you think of a lemon meringue pie with beads of moisture
on the top, that’s why. Sugars are always looking
for free humidity. – That’s why. – Or if you take strawberries
and sprinkle sugar and then start just start tossing them, it pulls the moisture out of the berries and they make their own syrup. They get all shiny and wet and liquidy. So that’s what sugar does. It like draws out moisture
which is weird for the yolks. They, it almost cooks them if you don’t, if you do it too long, like too early in the day to let it sit. – Fun with science.
– Yeah, it’s physics. – Yeah. – So we’re gonna, once we
know this is sort of close. we’re gonna mix our, the
sugar and the yolks together. – Well, you know, this will bust up. – Yeah, it’s going really,
it goes really fast. – You know, once we turn
it on, it’s happening. – Then we’re actually
gonna temper these yolks with some of this hot cream, just pour like a little
in to getting used to it. Whisk whisk whisk, a little
more, whisk whisk whisk. And then everybody can
safely go back in the pot, and it’s been diluted enough with cream. – We haven’t made omelets. – And now we’re gonna cook, ready or not. So we’re gonna cook it ’til
it simmer almost boils. I like to see a couple bubbles
just to make sure it’s– – This is the burner for that, ’cause you can dial it to exactly. – I gotta watch myself on this one. So let’s go ahead and put the, we got– – Have you ever done
a demo and screwed up? – What, you you were talking
about your fire story earlier. So I wanted to tell you what
happened to me one time. I was on Food Network
doing my show, right? And I don’t know if you
remember the early shows where after I was done cooking, I’d like retire to a little
cafe table at the side and we’d recap and we’d go like, ooh! I take a bite of the
Eclair, and is that good? And I’d show it to the camera so. – I couldn’t catch you during that era. – So yeah, that was like
season one maybe, and two. And, you wanna bring this to boil? – Sure. – You were so good at doing it last time. – So I’m at the little cafe table here, and I have incredible peripheral vision. Most chefs do, because
you have to be able to see someone behind you. So I’m at the cafe table and I’m recapping and closing out the show
and I see two things. I see a cameraman run
from behind his camera to behind my stove. Then I hear just like stomping
which is not good for audio. You know you’re like, trying to cover. And then I think like, is
there like a roach on my set? Is there a mouse over there? And then I see flames lapping up. And what had happened
was I had left a towel like sort of like that
and it caught on fire. So they pulled it down, stomped it out, but didn’t stomp it out. Yeah, so that’s probably what I think of. when I think of a mishap.
– Okay. – Is that what you, have you got one? – No I mean, I don’t do as many, nearly as many demos as you. – You have a fire story. – Yeah, I caught I caught I was doing, Sandy D’Amato who’s an
amazing chef, the chef, he and Angie D’Amato of
Sanford and Milwaukee had written his book which is a biography, autobiography with
recipes called Good Stock, and he was on tour for that, and he was doing a book event where it was sort of a armchair interview that I did with him and then a demo. And he said, well, help me with the demo. And it was a really simple soup. And I was helping move the pot over and we had flame burners and
it was at a fancy-pants club where they instead of having
kitchen towels like this, they had their you know
their good club-y napkins, and I grabbed it and it caught the flame, and it went up in flames. And again my dear late
friend Joe Bartolotta was in the front row. Just laughing having a
great time with this. – ‘Cause that had never happened to him. – Yeah, doing a lot of that. And he would often ask me do you, yeah, do you remember that time you almost started Sandy on fire? I do Joe, yeah.
(Gale groans) – You know, you could not tell that story, ’cause now it could go– – It could go, yeah.
– It could die with him. – Well, Sandy remembers though, though he doesn’t rub it in. – So we’re waiting for
this to, look it’s already. – I know and we’re just at 85. – I know, so see this? That’s 160 degrees when you see that steam coming off, 160, 180, and we just need to get to 212. – And it’s been, we just ramp it up. – I think I can get busy here. So, I’m gonna add the sugar to the yolks. I got six yolks here. – The awesomeness of
the Vollrath induction. – You aren’t kidding.
– Six yolks. – Yes, six yolks, so that means they you’re
gonna have six whites. – Right, yeah, – And we’ll use the whites
in the chocolate mousse. I have a class on craftsy.com
that’s a meringue class, and it’s seven different lessons on how to do all different
kinds of meringues. But what happens after you take the class, you’ve got about 140 yolks left. (audience laughs) And I’m like if I have
that, my students will have, so the next class I
did was a custard class of what to do with the 140
yolks that were left over. So this is one of the things
you do with the yolks. – So, regular granulated
sugar, nothing fancy. – No, never anything fancy. You know, I really feel like– – Do you need bubbling
bubbling, by the way? – Ah, yeah, bubbling would be good. – Okay, go to 100. – I just feel like if I
require special equipment, or you know hard-to-find ingredients that that’s gonna keep
you out of the kitchen. – Yeah.
– And what I really want, first of all I want you to
invite me over for dinner and cook me dinner, ’cause nobody will. But what I really want, like
I want you guys in the kitchen having the joy that I get from cooking, and I don’t you know, if there’s
something holding that up like if there’s not a pie in your oven and your house doesn’t smell
like pie because of the crust, like the crust is the
hold up, buy the crust. Go by pie dough. I’d rather you buy pie
dough and make a pie and have whoever’s walking into your house smell an apple pie.
– Where’s my sweetheart? ‘Cause I buy crust. – I condone that.
– I want her to hear this. – I think it’s okay. You know and I mean, they’re figuring that
out in grocery stores. Like people wanna cook, but they don’t feel
like prepping their veg. So now, you can get vegetab-, you know you can get squash
already cubed up for you. Figure out what’s the holdup and go get that part already made. It’s fine, I just would
rather you be cooking, ’cause cooking, it’s fun, it’s creative, it’s expressive, it’s
relaxing, it reduces stress. – Can be cathartic.
– And it’s a great connector, you know between you the cook and the person who’s
gonna consume this stuff. Alright can you see how it’s?
– Yeah. – We call that smiling. See how it’s like shimmering?
– I do. – Yeah, that’s smiling
now, so it’s gonna boil. – All right, so we’re gonna bring it back. – We’ll go way down. Alright, so we’ve got nice hot cream. We’re not infusing any flavor into it, so it’s not like it has to,
you know, sit for 10 minutes, but we are gonna use it
to melt our chocolate. So I’m gonna go ahead and add
the chocolate and let it sit– – Can I stir it?
– Give it a whisk. Yeah, see how fast it’ll.
– Alright. – Now you’re making hot chocolate. – I am, I’m making hot chocolate. – Alright. Though not the kind that Montezuma drank. He apparently drank like 15 cups a day and there was no sugar in it, though there was chilies in it. – Right, seasoned with many others things. – Yeah, maize to thicken it. So cornmeal to thicken
it, maybe some honey, other spices like canela,
which is the true cinnamon. – Really.
– And cocoa. Yeah, I just gave a cinnamon
class in Palm Springs and yeah, the stuff
that we use as cinnamon is actually cassia. It’s not cinnamon, but in the UK they have
to label them differently, like differentiate between the two, but here we don’t have to. – See I want your life ’cause like, I’ll give a cinnamon class in Delafield. You know.
– Where’s that? – It’s just a suburb of Milwaukee.
– Oh okay, alright. – And you’ll give a cinnamon
class in Palm Springs. – Great, yeah.
– Sure. So maybe we could swap for it
like a Freaky Friday thing, you know like for like a week. – I just got the invite to
the San Diego Food & Wine. – Yeah, and I’ll– – Are you up for it?
– I’ll sous chef. – Are you packed?
– You bet, all day. – Got your bathing suit, got you sun-, you need sunglasses.
– Whatever you need. – It’s a rough life, right? All right you’re good, you’re good. So we’ve got melted chocolate
all in there, hot cream. I wanna combine these two things, and they’re temperature-wise are opposite. – Right. – If I were to pour the
yolks into this hot cream we would have an omelet,
chocolate omelette. – Scrambled eggs or something.
– Doesn’t sound good to me. So what we wanna do instead is add a little bit of this
hot cream to the yolks. – Oh, you’re a maverick. That’s way more than I would have put in. – Oh really, nah that’s good, ’cause that’s less than
you know a quarter, or less than a third.
– Okay. So it’s fine. – We do a demo with this really great egg and cream soup called water zuy. Do you know water?
– No, no. Is this a joke?
– No, this is true. – Isn’t a joke.
– Yeah, no it’s a old, It’s a Flemish soup and it
was originally made with eels and all kinds of other fish
stock and things like that. It was actually like the
15th century pope’s favorite, ’cause he was from Ghent, favorite soup, but it’s you, you have to temper the eggs. – Now, I’m going in. – Yeah, and you can’t like you are, wow. – So, that was like three additions. – That’s impressive, ’cause
I’m the guy that’s like, little drop, little drop, little drop, little you know shot glass sized. – That’s why people don’t
cook, it’s like too fussy. – Well no, I’m fine with it, but it helped me stretch out my demo. – Oh, okay, got it. Alright, so now, we’re gonna cook this. – It was actually a Julia Child recipe that she sent to the Times when they asked her what
do you like to make at home during this season or something like that. And this water zuy which
we substitute chicken, and so did she, with some
good crispy french bread is like, man, on those shoulder seasons, when it’s colder in the
spring or colder in the fall. – It’s called shoulder season?
– Yeah. – What’s a shoulder season? – So, it’s on the shoulders of summer, which is the real season
you want to be in. – Oh, okay.
– Yeah. – I’m from the Windy City
though, we don’t have that one. So now, I’m just gonna
cook this ’til it’s, starts to almost boil. So let’s go like, I’m at like 70. There we go, but you can see I’ve got
that steam coming off. So we’re already at 180. We’re not that far from where we wanna be. And basically what we’re
doing is thickening the yolks. That’s all we’re doing. And they do thicken, the egg.
– Take in the fat, in the egg and thickening it up. – Right, well not the fat, but the, there’s whatever coagulates,
which is not the fat. It’s the protein in the yolk. – I thought whites were protein. – Whites are protein and
water, yolks are fat, but they’re not all fat.
– Right. – So I’m not sure what the other part is, but it cook, you know, it gets solid. – All I know that was is
when when Nada was pregnant, she was told to eggs every
day, because of the al-blumin. – The albumin.
– Albumin. – Why, how, why is that good for– – It’s good for babies or pregnant people. – It’s a great source of protein.
– Yeah. – Now, for the pot de creme, you can actually pour this into any kind of container you want. So you know demitasse cup, ramekin, dessert cups, stemware. What I like to do is go in my cupboard nd see what’s dustiest and use that. Well, like wash it first, ’cause then, use that ’cause it means I
haven’t used it in a while. – This is why nobody cooks for you. (audience laughs) – It’s, no it’s kinda how I
keep things in rotation, ’cause like I bought these really cool retro dessert glasses. And so, I use them every time.
– Right. – And now Steve and
Dan from the Hardy Boys who come for dinner, have already seen those like five times and I need to break away
and do something new. So how I do it is I see
what needs cleaning, and you clean it and then use that. And you know, it wouldn’t
have to be something small. Like if it was a red wine glass, you could just do like a little shallow. – Again just one week
where we switch places, ’cause you know, ’cause like I’m rummaging
through the dishwasher to see what I can hand wash, so we could just set the table. – You’re just trying
to get two more forks. – I’m just trying to get to more forks and that bowl that we need. – Yeah, yeah.
– Yeah. ‘Cause we only have so many
Crate and Barrel settings. – Right, I got it. No, we have the same thing. I’m like, will my kids notice
I didn’t watch these first? They’ll never know, they
eat with their hands anyway. So we’re looking for
bubbles and we’ve got them. See that?
– Yep. – Okay, so that’s enough, we’re good. – So this is a warm yummy– – Oh it’s, we’re gonna chill it. We’re gonna pour this into
little containers of some kind and then chill it in the refrigerator. I think I’ve got a
measuring cup here, yeah. and some little, where’d
they go, here they are. So we’ve got these cute little kinda shot glasses to do it in. So we’re gonna pour it
into there and chill them. – Okay. – Then pipe a little bit
of whipped cream on top, and that’s done. – And through the power
of culinary schools, as in Madison College,
chilled examples of these are about to come through the door and be served to everybody. That’s pretty cool. – So, I’m just gonna fill these up. And you know if you wanted
to fill them halfway and put half a strawberry
down in there, you could. Or if you want to go all the
way up to the top you could. But you know, don’t feel like you have
to fill things all the way. – My trouble with these
sorts of desserts sometimes is that you know like, the spoon size doesn’t fit the dessert. – Yeah, you have to get
tiny spoons as well. – And I think did no one
talk in the restaurant? You know what I mean where it’s like, I get this big spoon and
not, and a tiny little glass. – Right.
– Yeah, yeah. – The problem with the
tiny spoons in restaurants is people steal them. So you have to like buy twice
as many as you really need, ’cause like we had salt cellars, and when we first opened Tru with little sterling
silver darling salt spoons. – Yeah. – For about three days and
then they were all stolen. So yeah, and people want a souvenir. – Sure. – And they kinda feel entitled. You know I just paid $200 for dinner, so. – Right, you know really, really, your check stub that’s your souvenir. – Well actually I mean, we would give you, when you left Tru, we gave, we handed out candale at the end, which are these little eggy rum cakes, And some in the beginning we
used to put stuff in your car, ’cause people would valet. So the valet would like plant chocolates like on the steering wheel. So when you got into the
car there was sort of like. – Sure. Did that ever backfire?
– No. No we were gonna do
chocolate scent in the cars and then we realized like
people have allergies. Like you can’t just do that.
– Yeah. – But we thought that would be funny. We also like we at the end of the meal we had a petit four cart,
so there was like 16, 20 different you know lollipops and truffles and all those things. And in the beginning
you know we were kinda, what do you, like slap-happy, like kinda goofy ’cause we hadn’t slept. I had like a bowl of alka-seltzer on. And then we also had a tray of glasses, ’cause people like forget
their reading glasses and can’t read the menu. – That’s really great. – And it looked like a jewelers tray that was like black velvet. So we’d have glasses and I always wanted to put a pair of nose
glasses in there too. And Rich Melman my
partner who’s a funny guy, – Yeah, he would love that. – That was like too far for him. That was too much fun I guess. So we’re gonna pipe a
little bit of whipped cream. Do I have a finished one
that’s chilled I can pipe onto? Or, these are already piped?
– They’re all piped. – This was what it will look like. So they piped whipped cream
on top, they’re really cute. Alright, any questions
about how to make that? And you can make it far in advanced. Like you make them four days in advance. You’ll just wanna cover
them with plastic wrap, so that they don’t get any
cross you know flavors in from your chicken wings or whatever. – We’ll actually do
questions at the very end, because we have a
microphone that goes around to record all of you. And so, save them in your mind. And we’ll also do the drawing
for the Vollrath items, which is fantastic. (audience chattering)
How do, will someone give me, – Am I in the drawing?
– No, I don’t know. Did you enter? – [Gale] No, I didn’t
know I was supposed to. – I think they, I think they’ve got, they got you covered anyway.
– Nice, thank you. So we’re gonna make
chocolate mousse next, right? – And I’ve got your other bowl out there. – Okay, thank you, very much. – I’m just gonna take
this little pot de creme. – Again not very many ingredients in chocolate mousse, right? We’ve got some, two kinds of chocolate, two
percentages of chocolate now that you guys know about that. – This is really good warm.
– Is it? – Are you like, shooting it?
– Yeah. – We’re gonna use six ounces
of bittersweet chocolate that we’re gonna melt over hot water. So, you wanna put that back there. – Mm-hmm.
– Get the chocolate ready. And then we’re gonna add to that two ounces of unsweetened chocolate, so we’re gonna melt those two together. So let me give you those
two, get those going. Here’s the– – How is your intermezzo pot de creme? (crowd murmuring)
– Oh yeah, it is kind of like it?
– Yeah. – Intermezzo, isn’t it?
– Thank you. And you know I should have
told you the story earlier. When I was filming with Julia, so I would, I’m in Baking with Julia, that with Julia Child, and if you got your recipes in on time, you got to go to her house
and shoot the PBS series. – That would be motivation.
– Right? And did I mention Dora
Greenspan was writing the book. So my chapter was the filo chapter, ’cause Julia had heard that
I do wacky stuff with filo. – Okay. – So when I got to her house in Cambridge, which was just like you want it to be. It’s like an old Victorian
house with like 17 floors. Like it was just super tall and dark, and I was down in the
basement prepping for, you stayed for three days. You like kind of prepped
and watched the first day, and then prepped the second day, and then to film the third day. So when I got there, she came downstairs, and she’s like, oh dearie, I just can’t wait to
learn about fee-lo, fy-lo, whatever you call that stuff from you. And I said well Julia certainly, you’ve worked with filo before. No, no, dearie and I just
can’t wait ’til tomorrow. And I had that weird moment. I was like wait did Julia Child just say that she can’t wait to learn
about something for me? Like, did that just happen? Like I look down to see if my pants are on
inside out or something. Like, is this the opposite
day, or you know, some? It’s a very weird thing to have that. And I kind of thought like,
oh, my god my career is over. Like what do you, you know,
where do you go from there? But so, two days later we’re filming and we’re on set which
is actually her kitchen, the one that’s in the Smithsonian. – Yep, seen it, been there. – So, we’re in her island in her kitchen and we’re about to go on
camera and she says to me, now dearie if you’re talking too much, I’ll stick my thumb in your thigh. (audience laughs) Which is like so perfect,
’cause it’s like under counters, it’s gender-neutral. It’s off-camera. ‘Cause after all it is my show. (audience laughs) She was 84 at the time. And I want, this is in my defense, I want you to watch the show. You can go to the PBS website and Google, just Google Gale Gand, Julia
Child, Baking with Julia and it’ll, I did two shows with her. And I am so quiet, and so, this like before I’m media trained, it’s before the Food Network
got ahold of my eyebrows. I had like these bushy
Mariel Hemingway eyebrows. I’m terribly blonde. And I’m like, I look even
shorter, ’cause she’s like. – She’s yeah.
– Well, she was six feet, but thank God she had scoliosis. So she was like 5′ 10″, you know? But it’s this Mutt and Jeff thing. And you do a lot of television. You know if on television, you’re supposed to stand close together. – Right.
– If you’re far apart, it makes bad TV.
– It’s like dead air on radio. – Yeah, and when you work with
those morning news people, like you have to stand next
to the six-foot-tall, which, who’s got heels on.
– Right. – So it’s a little bit of that going on, but the funny thing if you watch it, like the first five minutes of the show I’m like really far away from her, ’cause I don’t wanna get
the thumb in the thigh. I don’t want to get close to her. So I should have told you that earlier, ’cause that’s the way
to get me to shut up. – Okay, is the thumb in the thigh. – Yes.
– I think we’re good. – What I really think was going on there, she had just come off of
making Jacques and Julia. – Yeah. – And I think Jacques stole the show. – Yes.
– Is what happened. I’ve never actually seen a lot of it. – He did, or I shouldn’t say he did, but he was clear that he was, he was more in his prime in broadcast. – Okay, and she was sort of winding down. – She was sort of winding down. In her 70s she did something that, like I hope that where
I’m doing in my 70s, but in her 70s, she went
and reinvested in America and showed all of us where
our food actually comes from. She went out on salmon fishing boats. She trawled in crab. She hunted for truffles and morels. – She’s a hungry woman.
– She went, she, way before Bourdain or
Zimmern thought of this, or even existed in any,
you know, meaningful way. – She was so curious. – She went out and did it.
– And that’s why. – And so, she traveled America and then the like follow-up was
like well pair with Jacques. ’cause he was super he
just published fast food, More Fast Food My Way.
– Okay. – And so, he was like
you know really huge, and yeah, there was a little
bit of not stole the show, but he was–
– Right. So that’s, I think
that’s what was going on. – Yeah. – Do you know, a funny
thing about Jacques, do you know what he invented
for Howard Johnsons? That was his first job
when he came to America. – Oh, I know this, I
know this, just tell me. – And you might know it for me, ’cause I just love the fact,
he invented the clam strip. (audience chatters) Yeah, I just figured you know, the waitress that comes to
the table with the bask. Who’s got the clam strips? Like, that’s Jacques. ‘Cause I guess they were
doing whole clams fried. like quahogs, like big chewy rubbery, and he it was his idea to like
send him through the slicer, like through a shredder. It’s the kind of shredder that Wendy’s uses to slice tomatoes. And he sends him through a shredder and then seasoned flour.
– Sure. – Like, I just love that that’s who. – So a lot of you may not know, but Jacques Pepin came to America to work for Howard Johnson’s, because his friend Pierre Farne who was the executive chef at, oh, the most famous lay or
law restaurant in New York, the name escapes me, no, Le Pavillon. – Oh, okay. – Who his best friends
with Craig Claiborne who was the food editor
for the New York Times. Anyway Jacques was a young guy and his mentor calls
him and says come over. I’ve got this great job for you, and we’re gonna redesign
the Howard Johnson’s, which was the premium
you know hotel chain. We’re gonna redesign their menu, and that’s what got Jacques to America. The other great lore about
Jacques Pepin was that to prove that their
food was easy and worthy and what-have-you, that they did did the
tasting for the executives, and then they did the tasting again with everything cooked
in a early microwave. – Oh.
– And whether that’s true or not, if you know the difference, I don’t want you to tell me, ’cause I wanna believe
that’s a true story. – Right, you want that
preserved, something. – Yeah, yeah, yeah.
– Oh, great. – Just to show you what we’re doing here, I’ve got some water that I’m trying to get sort of to a simmer creating a bain marie, a water
bath to melt the chocolate. I’ve got the bittersweet
chocolate , six ounces here, and two ounces of
unsweetened, 100%, right? So we’re gonna melt those together. I’ve got some cream
whipping back stage for me, and we’re gonna whip.
– ‘Cause this whipper, this sucks this one is. Like if it were Vollrath,
we’d be whipping it out here, but this mixer. – Well, I just I feel like
we’re running out of time, so. – Meh. – So I’ve got the egg
whites in here though. When you’re making a meringue, things you wanna remember and make sure is that your bowl is clean
and dry and fat-free. I almost never care about
things being fat-free, but in this case it’s important, because any kind of oil, whether it’s a little bit
of yolk that got in there when you’re separating
them, or just you know there’s some whipped
cream up here on the mixer that you didn’t wipe off or some buttercream on your
whisk from the last time, that’s gonna inhibit your
egg whites from whipping up. Egg whites or like we mentioned before, just protein and water. – Yeah.
– Right. – You’re just injecting air.
– What we’re doing, well, we’re trying to get air
to hook on to the protein, but the protein chains are like Slinkies. They’re like really tight springs.
– Okay. – And air can only hook onto
the inside of the spring. So we have to flip the chains inside out. – Oh, wow.
– So we literally have to like kind of relax the chains, the protein, and then get it to flip
inside out to get it grabbed, air to grab on.
– Do a Houdini. – There are a couple ways you can do that. One is to kind of warm
them up a little bit. It’s just like a person. Like if I turn the heat up a
little, you get more relaxed. You get more loose. You know if I like swirl
you around the dance floor, you get a little more,
you get dizzy, right? So we’re gonna do that to the egg whites. We’re gonna like mix them up. And Hope, can you guys
see in this mixer or no? Is there a place I could
move it where you could? Okay, I’ll show it to
you when it gets there. So the stage we’re looking for, when you first start
whipping up your egg whites, you want them to look like bubble baths, like really big bubbles. And if they start having big bubbles that means that they’re in good shape. There’s no fat in there,
they’re able to take on air. And then it’s worth going
forward with the recipe. If they don’t start having bubble bath bubbles like start over, because you don’t wanna waste the sugar and the chocolate if the
whites are never gonna come up. – Eggs, dime-a-dozen.
– Right, eggs are cheap. Even expensive eggs are cheap, you know? So let’s see, where can you
guys see this, at the stove? – [Hope] No, she’s there right now. – Oh, she does, oh, can you see that? So you see those big bubbles, or no? – [Hope] If you have it in
the mixer we can see it. – You can see it in the mixer? Oh, great then I don’t have to flip it in. So bigger holes. it
looks like suds, right? Alright, so we’re gonna keep going. We’re gonna go ’til soft peaks. So what that means is when I pull a little bit of the meringue out with the whisk and hold it up, it’ll form like a little peak like the on the top of a chocolate chip. And if you’re wondering why you can’t use
chocolate chips for this, like Nestle’s morsels, they have a little bit of
edible paraffin in them. Edible, but it helps them keep
their cute little chip shape in the cookies. So they don’t like, you know.
– I didn’t know that. – Yeah.
– Yeah. – So, there’s not meant to be melted. – Right, right.
– So it’s– – As evidenced by the
chip shape in the cookie. – Right, and you see kids like doing their first
chocolate-dipped strawberry and they’re trying to Nestle’s morsels, and they don’t really melt, and they’re having a bad time. And that’s why, they’re not meant to melt. – So we’ll get you good
chocolate when we work at home. – This isn’t quite there. See how it’s falling pretty rapidly? And if I try to get a peak
on there I don’t get one. – Right. – And there’s not really
like any streaks left behind by the whip’s attachment yet. So we’re gonna keep going
like maybe one more minute. The tricky thing is if you go too far, the protein and water can’t
stay together anymore. They start to separate, and it gets kind of piecey
looking, like cottage cheese. But I don’t know if you can
see it’s like fluffier already, and you see kind of lines left behind by the whisk attachment. All right, we’ll take it a little further. – So tell your memory
story bain marie story, bain marie story.
– Oh, that’s a secret. Oh, you want me to share
the secret with them. – Yeah, well, you told
it on the other camera. – It too me a lot of
convincing to find that out. Hold on. Alright, so here look. Now we’ve got a soft peak.
– Oh yeah. – So that’s what you’re looking for. And you know if I lift some up, it doesn’t really drip
from the whisk attachment where as before it was sort of liquidy. So this is when you’d add the sugar. – Right. – I was telling him I
was telling you about when I was stodging at one
restaurant in France once where they said I can’t, I had a lunch reservation
at like one o’clock. So I showed up at 7:00 a.m. for my one o’clock lunch reservation. I’m gonna add the sugar,
but just kinda gradually, but not a teaspoon at a time, not fussy, but I’m just kind of pouring it in with the mixer running that way it won’t all
end up in the bottom. Right?
– Right. – And now we’re gonna
continue whipping it. So remember we talked about
sugar looks for moisture. So the sugar is doing that right now. It’s looking for the moisture,
the water in the egg whites. – To grab on.
– To grab onto. And then it’s gonna dissolve it. So we wanna whip this until
the sugar is dissolved. You can tell by putting
it between your fingers and seeing if you feel sand. – Any granules, sure.
– It crunches. It’s also gonna get kind
of shiny and glossy, so you’ll see that change. Anyway, I show up at 7:00 a.m. and somehow–
– Like this, by the way. – Make my way into the kitchen, well, that’s the cream, but– – Oh.
(audience laughs) – Did you just double dip? But they tell me I can spend– – White jacket.
– Time in the kitchen, but I can’t touch anything.
– Right. – Like, you could only watch. And you know.
– French restaurant, Michelin star. – Three Michelin stars.
– Three Michelin stars. – Le Pyramid, and, they tell me I have to sit in the corner and don’t touch anything,
but you can watch. So what I do, I’m thinking like I can’t sit here for four hours. Like that’s gonna make me crazy, and I wanna, you know, I
wanna learn, I wanna do stuff. So I look around the kitchen and I find the person
doing the most menial job. So there’s a comee, he’s like 14. – So French term for the
kitchen, it means kitchen boy, and they do the remedial,
peel things, empty garbage, wipe things, clean,
whatever needs to be done, lowest on the ladder in the kitchen. – Right, so he’s peeling like a, you know 50 kilo sack of carrots. And I go over and I’m like
you know, I, in my bad French. I’m like, you probably
have better things to do. Why don’t you let me peel those carrots? Like anybody, you know,
I can do that for you. He’s like, really? I’m like, yeah, yeah go. You know go do the next
thing on your prep list. So I peeled his carrots, and then I see another guy in the kitchen, he’s peeling potatoes,
he’s my next victim. So I go over to him, I’m like, yeah, let me, let me do that for you. You don’t need to be doing that. You’ve got more important things to do. And he’s like ah, okay. So I make my way around the kitchen to pretty much everybody
working in the kitchen and now everyone, look, I’m
like their favorite person, ’cause I’m doing their
grunt work for them. – Yeah. – So now, they start like calling me over. They’re like, Gale, Gale, we’re you know, we’re sticking the truffles
under the skins of the chickens. Come here, we wanna show you how to do it. So now, they’re like selling
family secrets to me, right? And the one that was the most
interesting that I learned was when you’re baking
creme brulee, a custard, you usually bake it in a water bath. So you put a roasting pan, you put your ramekins of custard in, and you pour water about
halfway up the ramekins and bake it. Well, they had a trick,
you didn’t hear it from me, but they take a newspaper, like five layers of newspaper,
six layers of newspaper, put it in the bottom of the roasting pan, put your ramekins in, pour water in and the
paper absorbs the water, and now you’ve got a thin layer of water between your ramekin
and your roasting pan. So there’s no direct contact between your China and your metal, which is in the oven that
gets up to like 300 degrees, which is if you’ve ever had a creme brulee that’s got like pin holes
in the bottom, that’s why, ’cause the bottoms get really hot, because they’re touching the metal pan. – The metal, yeah. – And if heat sinks it up
right into the custard. If you’ve got a thin layer of water, you can use a tea towel, you can use paper towel, or they used newspaper.
– Yeah. – And that keeps a little,
I know, right, duh. Right, it’s physics, So, but French physics. Yeah. And as you can see like you
can’t over whip this, right? So let’s check if it’s ready,
it looks nice and shiny. – So, our chocolate is
all melted at this point. – Good good, yeah, I turn it off and
letting it finish itself. – Oh yeah. – Yeah look, it’s not
really flowing at all, you know from here. We’ve got a nice soft
peak, we’ve got glossy, and if you hold it over your
head it doesn’t fall out. So that’s how you know it’s done. – One of my favorite, we were at, we were at a charitable thing. And it was this really cool where, so like 25 restaurants in the city set up and did a micro of their restaurant and seatings of 12 around that, right? So everyone that’s there
whenever 200-300 people are all sitting at different restaurants, 12 of us at this
restaurant, blah blah blah. Anyway the chef was doing dessert and the owner of the restaurant was there and it was all for leukemia I think. And he had hand whipped
the whipped cream in a bowl which is impressive anyway.
– And salted it with sweat. – Yeah, and then just to
make sure it was set up, he took the bowl and he held
it over the head of the owner, the owner, unbeknownst to the owner. And it was just it was
great, like, yeah we’re good. And then he went back and he
started doing his desserts. It was kind of fun. – Usually as my kids grow up, I make them do demos with me.
– Yeah. – So we’re Jewish, but I didn’t wanna like do the whole competitive
Bar Mitzvah thing, ’cause it’s just out
of hand where we live. Like the parties are too, you know. It’s like a college education they cost. So I thought well what’s a Bar Mitzvah? Well it’s, it’s you know, speaking publicly in front of your elders and doing a good deed. So I can have my kids do a good deed and I can give them
public speaking skills. So I have them do demos with me. We do it in their classrooms at school. We do at the Botanic Garden, at Disney, wherever we are, but one of the ones that Gio, Gio would do pavlova with me a lot, and it’s got a meringue like this, and that was always Gio’s
line is he would like, let’s see if it’s ready, and you know, the gasp from
the audience would always. He’s so satisfying. I need a regular whisk like that kind. – Like this?
– Yeah. So that first addition–
– Cleaned off? – Of egg whites. We’re gonna add the egg
whites in three additions, just to make sure we don’t
lose a lot of the air that we’ve just spent so
much time getting in there. So I’m gonna put the first third in. That first third you gotta really like whisk the bejesus out of it and just get it in there and sort of dilute the chocolate with it, and then the second third,
it’ll accept easily, and the third third, easily by folding. – I’m 99% confident this is clean. – It’s clean and–
– Suzanne. Suzanne will bring you one. – Oh. – I’m 100% confident that one’s clean. – That one is really clean, yeah.
(audience laughing) So I just wanna see how
hot this chocolate is. It’s a little warm. So I’m just gonna kind of mix it around. Now, the thing I want you to appreciate about chocolate mousse, does anyone know what the word mousse means in French? It doesn’t, it’s not the animal. – No.
– It means, it’s with two S’s not one
S, that’s the difference. It means froth or foam. So chocolate mousse is chocolate
froth or chocolate foam, and sometimes mousses are just chocolate and egg whites. Sometimes they’re just
chocolate and cream. Sometimes they’re cream,
egg whites, and chocolate. The thing that you gotta think
about, and this is you know, what pastry chefs would
keep us up at night. So this is basically an
oil-based thing right? Got cocoa butter in here. This is an oil and it’s warm. This is water and protein and it’s room temperature to cold. So we have opposites here and we have to make these opposites go together seamlessly, smooth, sexy, you know, just supple–
– Frothy, yeah. – Right, and we’ve got cream, cold cream. So why don’t we add the cream first? ‘Cause it would melt. – Yeah.
– Right? So what we need to do, we need to get this chocolate
to a less hot temperature, so that once we add the cream, it’s not gonna destroy that. So you know, there’s a
lot of sort of thought that goes into why this
first, why this next, and getting opposites
to work together nicely. So let’s go ahead and
add that first addition. – You’re feeling good about the temp. – I’m feeling confident.
– Okay. – Let’s see. – We have whisk confidence and we have chocolate confidence.
– Yes. So, I’m gonna cool it a little bit. All right, so we’re gonna
add that first third, use all our muscle to get it in before the chocolate realizes
that it’s being invaded. Yeah, there we go. So we’ve lost some of that air we just spent so much time getting in, but we’re gonna have a nice smooth mousse. So the trade off is worth it. Alright, so now, second third is going in, and we’re gonna fold it this time. Folding is not stirring. Folding is sort of–
– Folding is folding. – It’s running your spatula
along the wall of your bowl and kind of slicing through. And see this motion right here? I’m kinda cutting through it. I could do that all day. I just like, I don’t know it’s not like
seeing the streaks and the, and sometimes I’ll even like
cut right through the center and lift up and over and
try to trap some air. So we’re trying to retain air.
– You’re so crafty. – I just, look at that,
that’s like so fun. Alright. I have a daughter who
watches videos of slime. – Sure.
– Yeah, right, and just you know mix-ins, slime with mix, and I like, how can
you watch that, what’s? And then I fold mousse,
I’m like oh, that’s what. It’s the same thing for her, yeah. – Do you fold mousse cathartically when you need you know
just to go to that place. – No no, but I don’t think, you know I fold it so often
on a daily basis that it’s, I don’t need to like plug
in an extra batch of it. Yeah, I get berated, ’cause I bring home too much stuff. – Sure. – My poor husband he you
know, there’s the freshman 15. – Yeah.
– He’s got like, the pastry chef 30 apparently. Not my fault, I swear to
God, it’s not my fault. See, I don’t make him eat it.
– Right. – So now, we’re gonna add the cream. Now we’ve got these two opposites together and it’s not as hot as it was
before, so it’s not gonna– – Look at the volume in there. – Melt our cream really.
– It’s really fantastic. – This is the big boy bowl.
– So as we conclude this, then we’ll have the microphone go around. If you have any questions, begin to gear them up in your head. And afterwards, well, two things. First we’re gonna do a
drawing for the NUCU product which will be fantastic. And then afterwards Gale is
going to do book signings and she has got product. – I do, I have merch. I have salted caramel sauce
which I’m telling you right now do not open that jar alone. (audience laughs)
It’s addictive. And I’m not kidding, this
is from my customers. And when they get it for me, they don’t say, oh, I’d like some. They say need some, a need basis. It’s salted caramel sauce that you put over ice
cream, waffles, pancakes, dip pretzels, dip apples, dip your finger, but no opening in the car. No, oh I’m just gonna
have one spoonful, really. ‘Cause the next thing you
know the jar is empty. I also have honey from
my neighbor Rick Jamison who has six beehives whose bees did not make
it through the winter. – Aww.
– But this, he has 300 pounds of honey from last year. So I’m selling his honey, 12 ounce jars and nine bucks. I have root beer.
– Yep. – I have jerky. I do recipes for a local
jerky company in Chicago called Think Jerky, it’s
all chef-driven recipes. So Doug Sohn does one
of them from Hot Dougs. – Oh, yeah, okay yeah. – I do one, Matt Troost does one, and Laurent Gras who’s French.
– Yes. – Has a Thanksgiving flavor, ’cause they don’t sell
celebrate Thanksgiving in France and he’s fascinated with it. So, I have some of that here. I think I’ve got three titles with me, Got Lunch!, I’ve got Brunch!,
and I’ve got just a bite, and maybe one copy of
short+sweet back there. Is that all I have? I think that’s all my stuff. – Collect them all.
– Yes. Happy to personalize and sign books. So this is the mousse. – That looks fantastic.
– Keep folding until you don’t see streaks. – I think we can probably serve it, yeah? – Yeah, I think so. – Yeah, let’s bring it up.
– I’m gonna pipe a few into, and I brought some, did
we have enough violets to? I brought violets from my
garden at home to garnish with. They’re, violets are edible. There’s a lot of flowers
out there that are edible, marigolds, chrysanthemums, roses. You can candy them, crystallize them. – Roses?
– Paint rose petals with egg white and dip them in sugar and
let them dry overnight. So these are some violets from my garden. And same piping technique. I’ve got a collar on here,
I’m just filling it up. Unfold it. Gather it up. And just pipe. And this mousse if you make this mousse, you can make it three days in advance. Same thing, you know, pipe it into whatever
container you’re gonna serve and then cover it–
– Keep it in the fridge? – Keep it in the fridge.
– Okay. – Yep, so the one I’ve got here, do you wanna put your finger out? – Yeah, do I?
– You know it’s, this one’s a little loose, a little warmer than what they’ve got. Theirs is a little more set. – That’s great. The air in that is–
– Nice, light. – Yeah.
– Right, and simple. What was that six, six ingredients? – Mm-hmm.
– Right? – Just get the order and the timing right. – Just do what I say, yeah. (audience laughs) – Can we go around? Do we have, brought, okay
Kaitlyn’s got the, thank you. I’ll take two, one for my sweetheart. So if you’ve got a question
if you would stand up and wait until the microphone gets to you to ask that question. Does anyone have one? Alright, there. – [Woman] So, I do have a question. It’s like, I enjoyed
everything so far, you know? – Yeah.
– I guess just, like, would you personally, or what would you recommend the students, like the hospitality industry, how should we approach to this new trend of everyone going vegan. – Ugh.
(speaker off mic mumbling) Just ignore it.
(audience laughs) Ignore it, it’ll go away. I know, right? Well, you know, first
was the gluten free one, – Tyranny.
– Which we have mixed feelings about,
because you know some people just kind of trying to go gluten-free. It’s not ’cause they need to. They just wanna see if like their digestive tract feels better, but it turns out I’ll
make a recipe and realize. Oh, wow that was like that gluten, like the mousse you’re
eating, that’s gluten-free. I did, I don’t know if
anybody got to taste them, but I did some some flapjack,
which is a British oat bar. It’s made with oats and syrup and brown sugar and butter.
– This is really good. – Does it, oh good,
that’s not gluten-free, but like my oak bars are gluten-free. Pavlova is gluten-free. So I kind of have like a little repertoire of gluten-free desserts. And I’m often doing charity dinners where I’ll donate myself. You know you can like buy me and I’ll do a six-course
dinner in your house. And you know there
always be like one person who’s like dairy free and gluten free. And so, I think as a pastry chef, if you just have a couple
tricks up your sleeve, like I can make whipped
cream with coconut cream, you know and do like a rolled
pavlova which has no flour, so that’s gluten-free as well. So I would just you know, have a few things in your
repertoire that cover that area and then just pray that
it goes away, you know. Sorry.
(audience laughs) Yeah, I mean what are the
French thinking of us right now? They’re just, probably think we’re crazy. You know, we were crazy initially, ’cause we like, we don’t drink wine. We don’t drink wine when we’re pregnant. You know, they’re all fine. They’ve got lower cancer
rates than we have. They’ve got lower heart
attack rates than we do. And you know.
– They do have a problem with some folks wearing
vests in the streets though. – The brightly colored ones.
– The yellow vests, yeah. – What are those guys doing right now? – I don’t know, I don’t know. – I think they’re actually
going over to London too. They’re traveling now. They’ve got visas. But anyway what I try to
do is just have a you know a few things in my repertoire that accommodates dietary restrictions. My dad was a marathon runner. And so, his deal was no
butter, no cheese, no eggs. He’d sit down in a restaurant
and look at the waitress and just say that, just no
butter, no cheese, no eggs. So if he ordered something that had that, she was supposed to know
to warn him, I guess. So in order for my dad to visit me at work and eat anything I made, it had to have no butter,
no cheese, no eggs. – Very hard for you. – Yeah, but I had a couple things. And eggs meaning egg yolks.
– Okay. – So like angel food cake worked. I have this tangerine angel food cake that not only did I do it for him, but when I was invited to do
Mayor Daley’s birthday party, one year he had just had
his episode they called it. They wouldn’t call it a
heart attack for some reason, but he had his episode. And so, I made a tangerine angel food cake with mango sorbet and
like some pulled sugar. Rick Bayless did the first
course and I was the last course and it was when Jimmy and I were dating. So you know there’s not a lot of upside to dating a pastry chef,
’cause we’re like busy, you know we work all the time and we’re tired when we get home, but there’s leftovers, you know that’s, I can’t do much, but I can do that. So Jimmy said to me, you know, can you bring me a piece of the cake you make for Mayor Daley’s birthday party? – That’s fair.
– I’m like absolutely. So I made one extra, put it aside, so it wouldn’t you know get
lost or waiter wouldn’t eat it. And we’re cleaning up the
kitchen, we’re wrapping up. I think I said there’s
150 people at the party, and all of a sudden I noticed
Secret Service in the kitchen with like sniffing dogs. You know there’s not
often dogs where I work. – Right, right. – And they’re sweeping the kitchen. They’re like, they go back
and forth is how they do it. And I, I’m like watching like what is going on? And the party planner,
and we’re all cleaned up. The party planner comes up to me and goes, Gale, do you have any more of that cake. And I’m like maybe. I have one piece for my boyfriend, why? She goes we have a special guest and, I think we need it.
– Yeah. – And I said to her, is it the President of the United States? Which was Bill Clinton at the time. And she goes, she goes no. (audience laughs) I’m like alright, here’s the deal. I get to serve it to him. And that’s my deal. Like if, so like when James
Taylor asked for desserts to go on his plane ’cause he was playing at Sam Zell’s party, I’m like here’s the deal,
I get to deliver them. I get to meet him. So I go out with the piece of cake. Clinton’s there, he’s like shaking hands. – How are you, nice to meet you, Gale. – And I, you know what I say to him? I’ve got the plate won and I
said hi, I’m chef Gale Gand and I’m the most important person here. (audience laughs) ‘Cause I’m thinking like the birthday cake is
the most important thing in a birthday party, right? He’s like, is that so? He goes then you come over here and you sit down right next to me. And so, I do. So it’s like Mayor Daly and the president and Al Friedman who’s
like this big land owner, like all the bigwigs at the
party are at this one 10 top and me look, like little me, and Clinton’s got me right next to him. And he reaches over and grabs my, I’ve got like my arms on
the arms of the chair, and he his hand is on my arm suddenly. I’m like, ah, there it is.
(audience laughs) I’ve heard about this. And then I look and
he’s got his other hand on Mayor Daily the same way.
– Yeah. – And he’s just a touchy guy,
he’s just touchy-feely guy. And he was terribly
interesting and really, he was talking about some
Indian Reservation he’d been to that he had just bought computers
for the whole reservation and how these kids were learning it. So he got the cake. So I meet the boyfriend. We were going to the
Joffrey Ballet that night, and he’s like, so where’s my cake? And I said, you’re not gonna believe it. He’s like what, what? I mean, who would you get? Only if, I don’t know like
the president stopped by would it you know would it make sense that you gave my cake away. And I’m like, no it wasn’t the president. Yeah, so he didn’t get the cake. – Any other?
– Any other questions? – Yeah, any other questions? – And are you sure you
wanna ask a question, yeah? – [Man] Are there any
uniquely American food ways or recipes that you see
disappearing that you wanna revive? – Oh, great question.
– All the time, to be honest. Like last summer I found this recipe, does anyone know of angel pie? Lemon angel pie?
– No. – So it’s, did you see it on my website? ‘Cause I was doing it last summer. It’s from the ’50s, and it’s basically a meringue
that you schmear into a, you know regular American
conical shaped pie pan and bake it off. And then it’s this like
lemon mousse filling, and then whipped cream on top. And it kind of soaks into
the meringue a little bit. It makes it very, it’s
a great summer dessert. And I hadn’t really heard of it, but I’d like, someone actually sent me a question on my website about it and I didn’t know about it. So I started researching it. So I’ll find stuff like that
and revive them all the time. Yeah, and I’m interested
in the history of things, where things came from. Right now I’m doing a
lot of British stuff, ’cause I just taught a Great British Bake Off number two class. I teach it Elawa Farm in
Lake Forest, Illinois, and it’s like 20 people at a
farm that come once a month, and you guys could come and cook with me. I do a day and a night time class, but we just did something
called Eton Mess, and it’s a dessert that was
invented at Eton College that’s from 1893, so I just
love finding out the history and the why and the how, and it’s basically little, just little meringues that
you break up into a bowl, fold in whipped cream and berries and then put it into a glass. – Yeah, yeah. – And there’s also something
called a Lansing Mess, which apparently there’s
a Lansing College, and that’s when you make it with bananas. So I just love all the
trivial and you know, I look through my grandma’s
card files all the time looking for new old ideas. I came across a recipe card in there. It said emergency cake. (audience laughs) Like I just love that idea,
like it’s an emergency. We need cake! Uncle Milt is coming over in 15 minutes and I don’t have anything? So and it’s–
– Enteman’s! – But she threw together and it worked, so she wanted to remember for next time. But I just love that idea of
like there’s an emergency, so cake is called for. Yes yes, so I adore heirloom recipes. And you know I talk about, I talk about eggs a lot where, when cookbook writers say one egg they mean one large egg. that’s the industry standard. We get a style sheet that tells you like that’s what an egg is nowadays, one large. So always as you, if
you’re cooking any recipe that’s written maybe after 1980, one egg means one large egg. But in the case where you’ve
got an heirloom recipe from your you know grandmother,
or your great-grandmother, that says jumbo, like always respect your
elders, always do what the, if it says sifted, you do it, you sift. – Yeah. – So those old recipes are just, I actually think that’s
how you live eternally is by sharing your recipes. You know my mom passed away
before my kids were born and they know her through her, you know Grandma Myrna’s pancakes, Grandma Myrna’s chicken paprikash. Like her, she’s embodied in food. She wouldn’t be happy about that, but it’s what’s left behind. – It’s true, my mom has a lasagna recipe that I saw, you know, change people’s, I mean like it would be a
neighbor that was gonna sue over where the shrubs were, and then she’d make lasagna for them. – Oh, and it would like, peace. – Yeah, like, you know.
– Peace in the Middle East. – Yeah, like bring–
– Her lasagna. Don’t you love that?
– Bring attorneys to tears, you know, that sort of thing.
– Yes. – And my brother had it, I
hadn’t seen it in forever, we moved in together. My wife reached out to my brother and said would you send
me the lasagna recipe? And he had sent, it was a
little you know, kind of card. Yeah, he had sent it blown up, and on you know copied it and sent it. I came home and it was sitting in the
middle of the kitchen island. No one else was home
and I broke into tears. – Was it your mom’s handwriting? – My mom’s handwriting.
– Yeah. – And I could taste every
iota of that lasagna. – That’s the power of food.
– Yeah, yeah. – When I was a little
kid I had a marble cake at my friend Lauren Shay’s house. Her dad Art Shay was a
photographer for Life Magazine. So when I was six years old, I was in Life magazine
cooking, ironically. And there was this marble cake that her grandma Fanny made. And grandma Fanny was like from Russia, like she didn’t even
know her own birthday. She didn’t know how old she was. No records of anything, and best marble cake I’d ever had, and now I’m a pastry chef for a living. And I call Lauren, I’m like, do you’ve your grandma
Fanny’s marble cake recipe? She’s like, nah, maybe my mom does. I called Florence, I’m like do you have? She’s like, hmm, no, I don’t know where that is. I call like the grandchildren,
did you ever get the recipe? And I’m like calling every
generation of this family and realizing that now that Fanny’s gone, so is this recipe.
– Yeah. – And I was, it was at
my wedding to Jimmy, I was getting married, and we invited Art and
Florence Shay to the wedding. I even, I interviewed in a magazine and told about how like this family won’t give me their recipe. Like I shamed them in print and I thought that would
get them to give it to me. Anyway I invite them to my wedding, ’cause we were close friends, and as a wedding gift
she gave me the recipe. – Wow.
– Wow. – Now she told me not to share it, which, you know there’s there’s
rules about that, and yet. So I did on my show about a week later. So only 30,000 people saw me doing it. – Another question. – [Woman] Do you have any
recipes in your back pocket like that are diabetic friendly. I know it’s kind of hard
for a pastry chef, but. – What do I do?
– Yeah. – You know I used to think
that it was okay to use honey, but it’s sort of not, right? So are you, is it more like monk fruit and that kind of thing?
– Sure. – Yeah, so I have a couple
things that I do with that. So again you know you
have like one or two, That’s really all you need in a restaurant setting. So, yeah. – [Woman] Second question, which is your favorite cookbook that you. – I don’t have it here tonight
so, I’m hesitant to say it, but it’s, butter sugar
flour eggs, is my favorite. – Oh, yeah.
– Yeah. That’s got everything, right? In my, like I have all the books, and part of why I have them is, you know, so that I can find my recipes. So, but I’m starting to make, like I can’t remember
which book they’re in, but that’s the book that
like has the most stains, and the most, like the
binding is falling apart, ’cause I use that. Like the the ginger
marzipan cake in there, oh, that’s so good. Like even I think it’s really good. – I love that this woman in the third row is bouncing up and down with excitement as you name off that cake.
– Yes. – Yeah, I have a sense
that you’ve made it. – She clearly has that book. So that’s like, it’s not the best photos. You know, it looks a little dated, but the recipes I think, and that was sort of maybe the peak of. You know, and when I would do my show, I would shoot 30 shows in a season, and you do three recipes per show, so it’s 90 recipes I have to come up with. That’s a book.
– Yeah. – Like, a book is 100 recipes.
– Right. – So half of the recipes
would be from an existing book and half would be new. And that would sort of make the next book like that would be half of the next book. So that was sort of how I
was able to write so much. – Yeah. – But that was like a good,
like it had so much in it. – Let’s do, I know we’ve kept you all later than the series usually goes. Let’s do one more question, and then we’ll give Gale an opportunity to sit down and sign some
things and sell some things, and right before that, I’m going to raffle off
these two, or not raffle, but get two of you these
terrific NUCU things, the baking sheet and the non-stick pan. So one more question over here. – [Man] I was wondering, do
you always plate on cold, on cold plates? And do you do any hot desserts? – I usually don’t use cold plates, and it’s funny ’cause you’ll like, I’ll go to a you know, a big event where we’re
doing dinner for 200, and they’ll say like, chef, you want your plates chilled right? And I don’t, because when you
take them out of the fridge, they get condensation on them. So I generally do room-temperature plates. The other rule is if
I’m doing a big event, you know one of these big
like dinner for you know, dessert for 300, 500, no ice cream. Not allowed to do ice cream. So there’s a couple
things you stay away from. I had a really bad experience once. I was plating up dessert for the AIWF, the American Institute of Wine and Food. They were having a dinner
at Mondavi Vineyard, and it was July and I
was the dessert course. So I did a protic, no I did panna cotta. It was a buttermilk panna cotta with strawberry mash right? And you pre pour them and
it wasn’t turning it out. It was in a low soup
plate like a low bowl. It was like a thin layer, wait, and I had like grape leaves underneath it, and I’m plating basically outside. Like they’ve got tables lined up and I’ve got my bowls, and I’m like going down
the line garnishing it. And it’s about 80 degrees out, but the course is gonna
go out in 10 minutes. So we’re cool, except
the fire alarm goes off, because the chef from Red’s forgot to turn the hood back on. Michael Chiarello turned the hood off to get his water to boil
to boil his gnocchi, and forgot to turn it back on, and then rib eyes were
cooked on the grill, and it set off the fire, and they had to evacuate
everyone from the vineyard, fire trucks had to come, my course sat there for
about an hour at 80 degrees and I’m just like no, and
it was the funniest thing, because after I served it I, so many people came up to me like, Gale, that panna cotta was sublime. How did you do that?
(audience chuckling) So it worked out okay is
the point of that story. – You couldn’t recreate it.
– But you try to be careful, like don’t do things that are
really temperature sensitive when you’re cooking for large groups. I don’t know if that
answers your question. Yeah, okay, great thank you. – Well chef–
– Yes. – We cannot thank you enough. – Thank you so much for having me. – Thank you everyone.
(all applauding) – It’s always fun to see you. It was great to work with you. Thanks.
– Yeah. Really fun. – Thank you. – And thank you and thank Vollrath. This has been an amazing series. Thank you for your
support, your underwriting, your sponsorship, your
just general coolness. I missed last month’s series, because my wife was in labor, and they said don’t you bother
driving here to present, because your wife is in labor, and that’s just, there they are. – There’s the baby.
– There’s the baby, and that’s the wife, that’s the wife, and that’s Christina from Vollrath who made that call and we are so grateful. Thank you to Chef Paul
for organizing this, pulling this series together, picking up the phone and
calling me in the first place, and saying let’s do this man. It’s been so much fun, and we’re coming back again next year, and we’re gonna have an amazing line-up. (all applauding) Thank you to Jones Dairy Farm
for this fantastic kitchen, where all the prep and all of the courses across this whole series could be made. Thank you to the rest of
the staff of Madison College within culinary, and baking, and pastry, and the students that
donate all their time and are so great. This couldn’t have come off any better. I’m just delighted and
I’m really grateful, and thank you last, but not least, to the a/v department who has documented, who have been steadfast
with my ridiculous creative kind of ideas and they just went with it, and then thank you to Brian, who’s gonna come up in just a moment, and we’re gonna raffle these things off, but he’s with the college, and without his stewardship and pulling all these
disparate parts together, and Katelyn wherever she is, for just sending a lot of
emails and organizing all of us, ’cause that was its own nightmare, in a good way, in a good way, okay? – And can I thank Suzanne personally? – Yeah.
– Thank you for all your help and all your schlepping. (laughs) (audience applauding) – And thank you all for being here. This was a sold-out night, as
it ought to be for Gale Gand. We are both equally grateful that you have sweet tooths. – Yes. (laughs)
– And you know a good chef when you see one so– (audience applauding)
(gentle music)

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